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Chutes and Daggers 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: A. Mollard & D. Stireman, 8/2014
New Route: Yes
Season: Afternoon shade, can get quite toasty in the AM
Page Views: 535
Submitted By: Boissal on Sep 3, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: The line

Description 

Start to the left of a brushy low angle corner below a smooth sheet of crimson patina. A few long moves to positive edges and a touchy mantle lead to the third bolt and the first crux, a delicate rightward traverse. Don't peel off these awkward moves and you'll be rewarded with a rest below a small broken roof.
You may be tempted to traverse further right to an obvious jug and a stance in the brush gully; refrain from doing so as it sets you up completely backwards for the next crux (which heads left) and may lead to unpleasant falls. The jug itself is "on" but won't help much.

Tackle the roof and establish on the face above, following an offset seam with the occasional edge or crack feature and fighting the growing pump by milking unobvious rests. The climbing gets steeper, thinner and more technical, eventually leading into an intimidating blocky area. The route takes the path of least resistance through this, heading left to an obvious stance where a large cube used to reside. Things may appear a bit hollow in the area but we were ruthless with the cleaning and what's left is not going anywhere.
Take note of the 9th bolt a ways out right and don't get greedy with an early clip: it's easily reachable from the stance, not so much from below while pumped.

Gingerly surmount the last of the blocks and veer right, aiming for the faint dihedral which forms the upper headwall. Take a deep breath and fire the last 30' of slightly overhanging rock, pulling long technical moves on small but positive edges. If the pump catches up with you before you clip the chains expect a long clean ride!

The route got its name from the numerous trips we had to take up and down the poop chute and the massive amounts of choss we tossed off the top before we could even start cleaning the face. As usual in the Jungle, the recipe for a rad new line is a (dumb) vision, lots of sweat and time with the trusty hammer/crowbar/steel brush combo!

Location 

The fastest approach is from the top. Follow the directions found on the Distant Drum main page to find the poop chute which deserves the end of the Village Wall and the Planet of the Apes. Make a right (heading South) at the bottom of the chute, round the corner and you'll find the route, easily identifiable by a giant sheet of red patina at the bottom of an orange face (and a large destruction area at the base).

If you have a dog, want to warm up along the way or dislike via ferratas you can park at the Lower Jungle and take a 25-30 minutes stroll depending on the weight of your pack.

Protection 

11 bolts to chain anchors. The 9th bolt can be hard to spot, rock quality dictated a placement a bit further right than we'd have liked on the side of a small prow.


Photos of Chutes and Daggers Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This choss pile marks the start...
This choss pile marks the start...
Rock Climbing Photo: Destruction at the base. The blocks were recycled ...
Destruction at the base. The blocks were recycled ...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is what the top of the line looked like pre-c...
This is what the top of the line looked like pre-c...
Rock Climbing Photo: The amazing patina sheet which unfortunately turne...
The amazing patina sheet which unfortunately turne...

Comments on Chutes and Daggers Add Comment
Show which comments
By Roy Suggett
Mar 31, 2015

Via Ferratas! Your use of language makes me...happy!
By Branden Michelkamp
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 13, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I felt this was a pretty stiff route, in your face the whole time. Great Movement, watch for loose blocks on this one I was pulling off a quite a bit when I was on it. Once this gets more traffic I think this will become a classic.

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