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Awful Buttress T 
Boyer's Chute T 
Chute Route T 
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Little Question T 
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Chute Route 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Dick Ingraham and Clem Ota
Page Views: 155
Submitted By: Marta Reece on Nov 24, 2013

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Description 

The description below, found in NMSU archives, was created by the legendary Southwest Mountaineers. It is at a minimum twenty years old, but likely dates as far back as 1970’s. The rock itself may have changed since that time. The rating system certainly has. For comparison, the Davis Route is listed in the same document as 5.3 and Boyer’s Chute as 5.2. So please treat what follows as a rough guide to an adventure, not as a solid and current info. If you do climb the route, sharing of what you learn would be appreciated.

This is a pretty, short, sharp route. Go up Boyer's Chute to a dihedral-crack system on the left wall of the chute which seems to lie back a little toward the top. The first pitch goes up 40-50' to the top of a sloping ledge on the right part of the dihedral. (It's best to belay here because of rope drag on the next pitch.)

Next, cross the dihedral and take to a vertical bit on its left wall with just the necessary holds. About 30 feet up, go right into the dihedral and belay from a nice little standing ledge about 50' above the belayer.

On the last pitch, climb the right side of the dihedral, using good footholds on the left side at a crucial point. Climb left and join the Miracle Route about 50' above the belay. The climb finishes at the "spacious level area" above the Awful Buttress. Go up a pitch and return by a rappel down into Boyer's Chute as for Awful Buttress.


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By Karl Kiser
Nov 25, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The Chute Route (5.7) is a steeper route to the left of Boyer's Chute. It follows the natural weakness for three pitches unless one desires to go to the summit of North Rabbit Ear. The normal rap, double ropes, is down the chute. This is another descent which has not seen much activity in recent years. Climbers should take slings and perhaps additional hardware to buck up anchors.

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