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(g) Morning Glory Wall
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Churning in the Wake 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Sean Olmstead, March 1987
Page Views: 6,715
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Oct 22, 2006

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Getting ready for the final move on churning.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


"Ok, now your left hand goes up to the nubbin...
Good. Now reset your feet and bump out right to the Windshield Wiper holds...
Ok, match, then bump out to the pinch...
Bring your left hand into the crimp, bring your right foot up, and fire for the jug"

Any given morning or afternoon at the base of Churning will yield a similar string of beta from a belayer or helpful bystander. This is probably the most worked route at Smith and many people have it so wired they can spew beta and call out sequences without even looking at the person climbing it.

It's for good reason though, since it really is a classic route here. It starts on fantastic deep pockets and gets progressively harder, finishing with a crux traverse sequence at the last bolt. Whether you climb it as a warmup for harder routes or work it as a project it's absolutely worth doing if you can climb the grade. Due to the amount of help you'll get (whether you want it or not...) and the quality of the moves this would be a great first Smith .13a.


Far right side of the Churning Buttress, on the Morning Glory Wall.


Bolts. There are often fixed quickdraws on it.

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