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Churning in the Ozone 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
Page Views: 1,533
Submitted By: Andrew Hunzicker on Jul 23, 2012

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


this route is part 3 of the churning series: first climb churning in the wake (13a), then do some fun and weird moves off the anchor (after a nice rest) followed by a trickly clip. continue on past another mild crux, clip a few more, then do a hard crux (tiny crimp for left, mono for right) and quick pop for jug. If you miss jug, its a fun cartoon fall: both hand are flailing in space while your feet remain on a huge "cave" bucket.

From here, you have done (almost) churning sky, (still 13a, so go figure that one), try to get a rest, because then its a full sprint for the ozone anchors (about 30 more feet and two hard clips with a few more cruxes). Great fun, lots of types of climbing, few painful holds, lots of endurance, adn great finish to the anchors (and have fun on the final clip!)


above churning in the wake



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By Ryan Palo
From: Bend, oregon
Apr 8, 2014

I sense some grade creep on this one. Always thought it was standard 13b. In no way is this a hair easier than Vicious Fish.
By Andrew Hunzicker
May 6, 2014

i agree this feels like standard 13b and much easier than fish, and waste case.
By CritConrad
From: Bend, OR
Mar 4, 2017

Today I broke the hold off the last crux lockoff at the last bolt on ozone. It was a nice flat incut crimper and now it is definitely worse, but the move still goes the same way. If this thing didn't feel like 13c before, it is definitely coming closer to that now!

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