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The Wild
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Antelope T 
Call of the Wild S 
Chupacabra S 
Congo S 
Gazelle S 
Heart of Darkness T 
Migration T 
Serengeti S 
Stampede S 
Welcome to the Jungle S 

Chupacabra 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tristan Higbee, Christian Burrell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,252
Submitted By: Tristan Higbee on Jul 22, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (90)
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Sherrie working the crux on Chupacabra.

Description 

This is a great climb! Climb past a couple bolts to a steeper headwall section. Pull past this section on lots of fun pulling on great jugs. That's the crux, but it's also the best part of the route. (Stay left if you want the 5.10 experience; going right makes it easier). After that, the route slabs out a bit up to the chains.

Location 

The steep prow/corner that is between the left slab (the section of wall that has Call of the Wild and Serengeti on it) and the right slab (the section of wall with Stampede and Welcome to the Jungle on it). Access it from the main landing (the landing under the slab routes on the left side of the Wild).

Protection 

5 bolts to chains.


Photos of Chupacabra Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cleaning chupa
Cleaning chupa
Rock Climbing Photo: Christian Burrell on Chupacabra (5.10a).
Christian Burrell on Chupacabra (5.10a).
Rock Climbing Photo: Jonny Wilson taming the crux of Chupacabra (5.10a)...
Jonny Wilson taming the crux of Chupacabra (5.10a)...

Comments on Chupacabra Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 3, 2017
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jul 23, 2008

Ended up climbing a bit differently that we thought, but it wound up being pretty darn good. Mostly a jug haul up a steep wall but there are a few smaller, hard to see, holds thrown in for your pleasure. Will likley end up being the most popular route here.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT
Aug 16, 2008

The most difficult climb on the wall. In my opinion, this is one of the best 5.10a's in the canyon. Pulling through the crux requires laybacking off of a sweet flake/rail. Just plain fun climbing.

8/21/08 EDIT: I've seen some people stay right at the 3rd bolt, avoiding the sweet (yet kinda powerful) lieback crux moves. If you do this, I don't think it's quite 5.10. The intended route is more to the left, up the steeper bulge. Either way is good, but be warned that there is probably more loose rock on the right side variation.
By tysin schaugaard
From: orem, utah
Aug 17, 2008

really cool climb but lots of flake off i pulled two huge flakes off today but i dont think it changed the climb any
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Aug 23, 2008

Stay to the left and you will not only do the intended climb, but you will avoid all the loose stuff.
By Jeff Jones
From: Elk Ridge, UT
Sep 4, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Super fun like all the routes on this wall. Loved the layback in the middle of the route. You guys did a great job!
By Aaron Child
Sep 14, 2008

Cool route! The feet were a little slippery when i began the lie-backing section, which made it pretty exciting.
By Nich Cloward
From: American Fork
Aug 18, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Very fun climb. Staying to the right makes it easier for, sure, but doing so puts you in a balancy spot for a move or two. Staying on the flake is much funner, and the feet are a little slippery, but it makes it exciting.
By Christopher Sorensen
From: Provo, UT
Apr 24, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Led this for the first time today and I have to say, I thought it was top grade. The first part of the climb is good, the last part is good, nothing amazing, but the crux move is one of the funnest moves I've done. You can go to the right, yeah, but not only does it make it a lot easier (I watched a guy struggle and struggle through the crux before finally just climbing on the right to the chains), but you also miss the best part of the climb.
By Taylor Zmoos
Sep 14, 2010

For anyone else who might be wondering
this is what a Chupacabra is

Personally they don't scare me one bit.
By Kenny Clark
From: State College, PA
Apr 27, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I would 2nd the previous comments. I mistakenly went right the first time I did this. I totally missed the sweet lieback moves. That's where the fun, and the difficulty lies. I also noticed that the footholds in the crux were indeed very polished. If you want your onsight, don't read this next part: a high heel hook can get you past the polished feet.
By BJB
From: Texas
Jun 16, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This was a great, fun route. The lie back moves are a lot of fun, but i'd say the same thing about the foot holds that Christian did, I slipped on one and almost blew the onsight. Great rock in this whole area.
By Canyon Copa
Jun 1, 2012

Big fun moves on great holds up over the bulge. Highly recommended.
By Tristan Mayfield
From: SLC, UT
Jul 21, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This a pretty cool route! I really like the crux move! Watch out for the pokey rock at the bottom of the climb though, it would hurt to fall on.
By DanielRich
Sep 3, 2015

Ya if you miss those sweetback lieback moves you missed the fun part. Really fun moves.
By Benjamin Anderson
May 25, 2017
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Though it was a very well done route, I feel like it has one major flaw. At the gem section, the lieback at the flake, the feet were way slippery. It felt pretty greased out, making for pretty frustrating footwork. 5.23.17 I'd like to see everyone else's thoughts.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT
May 25, 2017

While it's very possible (and even probable) that the feet have gotten more slippery over the years, that crux section was slippery even on the first ascent.
By Alex Temus
From: Provo, Utah
Jun 3, 2017
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

I was planning to just do most of the routes here, so I didn't check the route descriptions, suddenly I'm on this layback flake, thinking "This flake is awesome! And it feels kinds like a 5.10 - must be Chupacabra."

That crux layback section was pure gold! I loved it right up until I had to move my feet higher onto that slick section. Man, my feet must've slipped a dozen times before I fell, then another couple times before I figured out a really funky toe hook way to the side, reached for a far off crimp and made it past!

It's a sweet route - no doubt about that, but that couple feet of climbing is just polished from lots of chalk and rubber packed into it. I brought my pretty old shoes that don't smear super well, so that probably didn't help, but that section still felt more difficult that it needed to be. If I remember, I'll bring a wire brush next time I go to this wall so I can clean it off a bit. Still an awesome, classic route!

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