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Vampire Rock
Routes Sorted
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A.C.E. S 
Blood Doll S 
Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 
Chupacabra T 
Climb-Eye-Knight S 
Crack of Desperation T 
Fear of Sunlight S 
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The T 
Heart of the Narrows S 
Le Stat S 
Monkey's Sister S 
Monkey's Uncle S 
Pin Cushion S 
Politician, The S 
Stage Fright T 
That's Weak S,TR 
Trash It and Move On T,S 
Vampire, The T 
Wanker S 

Chupacabra 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Clint Dillard and Rich Farnham
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,516
Submitted By: Rich Farnham on Jul 16, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Rich Farnham seconding the first pitch on the FA.

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  • Description 

    UPDATE 7/2016: the main reason to do this route is the 2nd pitch finger crack through the bulge. The first pitch is mostly dirty and unremarkable until the last 20', and now there is a good way to avoid the choss and climb the good stuff. The face climbing to the right of the first pitch turned out to be a good bolted climb: The Politician. In the course of creating that route, we removed the rusting fixed pins and bolted the upper section of the first pitch. Combining The Politician into the 2nd pitch of Chupacabra makes it worth 3 stars IMHO.

    Original description: the route cris-crosses with Vampire at several points. There is some loose rock on this route but nothing I think will come off any time soon. Just be careful what you grab and what you put pro behind. We trundled all of the loose stuff that we could get to move, so it should be fine--but this is more of an adventure climb.

    P1 (10a). Follow thin cracks up blocky terrain a few feet right of the large, dirty corner. The upper third of this pitch has nice moves along a thin seam in good rock. We left 3 fixed knifeblades for pro in this section (UPDATE 7/2016: now bolted). Look for a 2 bolt anchor to the left after the knifeblade section. This anchor is about 10 feet below where Vampire crosses in from the right.

    P2 (10+/11-?). Climb up and right, into the left-facing corner between "Vampire (P2)" and "The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked". The corner leans right for about 20 feet and climbs a lot more interesting than it looks from below. Enjoy the jug rest below the roof (often heavily chalked from people on Good, Bad,...), and then punch it through the bulge above on great finger locks. This crack leads you to the slab that is at the end of P2 of the Vampire. Belay as for P2 of the Vampire.

    Several options exist from here. It is possible to climb right from this belay and get to the chains on "Stage Fright" or "Trash It...". Or you can follow the Vampire to the left and other rappel options along that route.

    Location 

    Start about 20 feet left of That's Weak, and about 5 feet right of a large gully.

    Descent: the first anchor is equipped for rappelling. If you do the second pitch (recommended!), use one of the descent options mentioned above.

    Protection 

    We didn't place anything larger than a #2 Camalot, but depending on what you want to finish on, I would suggest a standard rack to at least a #3. The gear is mostly stoppers and small cams, so you might double on the Aliens up to a red.

    P2 is heavy on the #0.5 Camalot/red Alien size. I used 3 on the pitch (but I sewed it up) and 1 more in the anchor. You could probably find other gear, but these were the most obvious and didn't use up good holds.


    Photos of Chupacabra Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Rich Farnham leading the second pitch on the FA.
    Rich Farnham leading the second pitch on the FA.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Clint Dillard on the FA of the first pitch.
    Clint Dillard on the FA of the first pitch.

    Comments on Chupacabra Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Dougald MacDonald
    Jul 29, 2016

    I won't rate it, because I didn't get it clean, but I think this is harder than 5.10+. Big fingers would help. Pretty cool short pitch.
    By Ken Leiden
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 9, 2016

    Can the ratings of each pitch be added to the description? Thanks.
    By Rich Farnham
    Sep 13, 2016

    Ken: "Can the ratings of each pitch be added to the description? Thanks."

    Done.
    By climberz
    Jun 3, 2017

    Nice pitch.

    Kinda exciting from the new sport climb anchor to the crux roof. The crack is grainy and exfoliating with a large flake that is not very solid. Once to the crux roof, the gear becomes great. Good call on bringing extra big fingers gear.

    There was no way I was downclimbing to the good, bad, and jacked anchor. I left a bomber #9 stopper and biner and lowered to that anchor. It would be nice if it stayed there for an easy descent. I assume an anchor is out of the question because of the proximity to the Vampire, an old established route, but it would make repeating this route more enjoyable.

    10+, 11- seems about right.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jul 15, 2017
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Pretty good. Pitches can be linked with good sling work if you don't sling the anchor and go right after clipping the top bolt with a 2' sling. The rope line is direct that way. Makes a maybe 150' pitch or so.

    2 cruxes:

    1) The poorly protected move to the right on P2 in the crumbly rock with bad gear and a questionable flake is probably 5.9+... if your arms are long enough to span it on the best holds. If not, then harder on worse rock and holds.
    2) The roof, which is somewhere in the 5.10 range depending on finger size. My thin fingers were not the best answer. My partner told me I also missed a "bucket" hold (incut), and I just kept climbing. Yes, a red Alien would have been nice there. I ran it out a little instead of getting pumped trying to put a Camalot Jr. in (which is what I had). The Aliens/FCUs/etc. are going to be better, since the crack is not a nice parallel crack - they'll fit in there. There are a few insecure moves after the roof that might have you pausing if you just ran it out 15'..., but with narrow cams or medium offsets that should not be an issue.

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