REI Community
Dew Mound - Lower Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Broken Bit S 
Center Lane Closed S 
Chump Monkey Among Us.  S 
Crows nest T 
Dirt Burger T 
Itchy and Scratchy Show, The T 
Landfall T 
Mike L. Boltin  S 
Nubian Princess S 
Stand and Deliver S 
Stonemaster S 
Workman's Comp S 

Chump Monkey Among Us.  

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Eddie Phay or Andy Hoyt, you pick.
Page Views: 1,008
Submitted By: L. Von Dommelheimer on Sep 16, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Chump Monkey's Crux.

Description 

Directly right of Mike L. Boltin. Climb large holds through bolt three where the climbing gets significantly harder or at least the holds get smaller. Climb small but positive crimps towards the fifth bolt. There was once a very good left hand side pull for a move to a jug to clip the 5th bolt. But I broke it off. Then I broke it off again. Dumb. Most of the bolts could be a few inches lower for hanging draws.

Location 

from the path head right past Mike L. Boltin,

Protection 

5 bolts


Photos of Chump Monkey Among Us. Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chump Monkey
Chump Monkey
Rock Climbing Photo: Chump Monkey
Chump Monkey

Comments on Chump Monkey Among Us. Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 16, 2016
By C. Williams
From: the Climber Cave
Sep 16, 2013

Was not psyched to dodge holds as a belayer. Wear a helmet!
By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
May 20, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

The climb is a confirmed .12b when it was a FA, by it's FA party. Subsequently, holds have broken, and is now b/c to c. Make no mistake, this is not a .12a.
By L. Von Dommelheimer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
May 21, 2014

Shouldn't confirmation be an average of the people who climbed and rated the route? This is 12a compared to other Alaskan 12a's.
By sasquatch
May 21, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Which FA? :)
By C. Williams
From: the Climber Cave
May 21, 2014

For pure entertainment lets go with the first one...
By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
May 22, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Touche Todd...not getting into that again :) Lang, for routes of similar length and grade, Weekender is comparable, and Onomatopoeia(etc) is .12a and easier. I agree with consensus, that's the point( or rather one of) MP.
By L. Von Dommelheimer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
May 22, 2014

Alternately, Mike L. Boltin is 5.11d/12a and about as hard as Chump. And something like the Shaft is miles different and SIGNIFICANTLY harder. Of course everyone is entitled to their own thoughts on a rating.
By C. Williams
From: the Climber Cave
May 22, 2014

I would propose that we don't use climbs from different areas as comparison. Weekender and Wiener Lake climb very different from Dew Mound. If Mike L Boltin is .12a I would also agree that chump is .12a as the cruxes feel about the same. Either way its grid bolted choss so who cares.
By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
May 24, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I propose that this discussion is closed at this point....until another subject comes up. Cheers.
By rock junkie
From: CO/WY
May 30, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Fun climb, found myself wishing the face kept going for a bit. This one seems to have cleaned up ok though we did climb it right after the choss fest to the left. Does anyone know if it has gone on gear? There are gear "placements" that could make for a fun time...
By The Shocker
May 31, 2015

The first lead of the route was protected by the first three bolts and 2 pieces of gear at the horizontal.
By rock junkie
From: CO/WY
May 31, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Sick! Might just need to make that happen again.
By The Shocker
May 31, 2015

Make it happen. Style matters. To some people anyway.
By rock junkie
From: CO/WY
Jul 17, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Lame as a gear lead. Don't get me wrong, it's a fun ego trip to plug a shaky stopper and a bad c3 and then run it out for 25ft. That being said, the last two bolts are definay needed for all but the craziest climbers.

By the way, nice send Sasha! FFA?
By The Shocker
Jul 17, 2015

Yellow Metolius 4 cam. The gear is definitely good. It has held multiple falls by multiple climbers. If you think it's bad, learn how to place better gear. Or clip the retro bolts placed years after the first lead. The 2nd and 3rd bolt were hand drilled on lead. I chose the climb the crux protected by logical, natural gear placements rather than HAND drill two more bolts. Laziness, not an ego trip, were my motivation. My style was my choice. Your style is your choice. And sure, you are welcome for all the hard work done by others and myself to develop the routes at the crag. And the name of the route, given to it by the first person to lead it is "Ignorance is Bliss".
It's rather disrespectful of folks to change the name of a route specifically to disparage its first ascensionists.
Style matters.
By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
May 16, 2016
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

As of 5/16/16, the belaying area below Mike L. Boltin, Chump Monkey and Stand and Deliver has been cleaned up and appropriate platforms have been restructured out of the loose talus at the base, making belaying and supporting more climbing parties more pleasant.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About