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Lizardhead Cove
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Chuckwalla T 
Underbelly T 

Chuckwalla 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 220'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Derek Field, Ray Eckland (Jan 2017)
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter
Page Views: 179
Submitted By: Derek Field on Feb 21, 2017

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Getting into the good stuff on P2. (Photo: Giselle...

Description 

Chuckwalla and Underbelly are a pair of cracks located on the sunny wall known as Lizardhead Cove. Together they offer a solid session of moderate crack climbing in a very scenic setting.

Chuckwalla is the left crack of the two, recognized as a sort of hanging pseudo-splitter on the far left side of the wall. Excellent jamming characterizes the second pitch.

Pitch 1: Shared with Underbelly. Start at the notch between the detached pillar (Samurai Warrior) and the main wall. Quest out on a horizontal traverse, riding the Fort Apache limestone band out into thin air. The first half is very easy and protects well with small cams in a continuous horizontal groove. About halfway across, difficulties arise. Mount a small detached flake and follow two bolts across a more technical section. This pitch ends at a two-bolt chain anchor on the far edge of the wall. The first ascent was done using only natural protection; the two bolts were drilled on rappel. (5.8, 80 feet)

Pitch 2: Launch yourself straight upward from the belay through a bit of cruddy rock (good TCU/nut placements) to gain a nice handcrack. Jam through a bulge into easier terrain, negotiate a short offwidth pod, then clamber over hollow flakes to the ledge with two-bolt chain anchor. Tread lightly; the uppermost part of the crack has some features that still need crowbarrin'. (5.9, 70 feet)

Pitch 3: Shared with Underbelly; currently not recommended. The FA team has plans to clean it up, so stay tuned. This pitch takes you from the Schnebly into the Coconino. Taking care not to feed yourself to the hungry agave pack, make tenuous slab moves in a shallow corner. Swing softly through a steep, loose section (10-15 feet of bad rock and bad pro). Fight the pump to the security of a splitter handcrack and jam your way to the topout ledge with slung tree anchor. (5.9+ PG, 70 feet)

Class-3 scrambling brings you to the summit of Lizard Head.

Location 

Far left side of Lizardhead Cove.

Protection 

Single rack to 4"
2 bolts


Photos of Chuckwalla Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at Chuckwalla and Underbelly from the P...
Looking up at Chuckwalla and Underbelly from the P...
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo for Chuckwalla and Underbelly.
Topo for Chuckwalla and Underbelly.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ray leading P3 on the first ascent.
Ray leading P3 on the first ascent.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bean following the P1 traverse.
Bean following the P1 traverse.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bean stacking jams through the offwidth pod on P2.
Bean stacking jams through the offwidth pod on P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jamming through the crux on P2. (Photo: Giselle Fe...
Jamming through the crux on P2. (Photo: Giselle Fe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ray leading the P1 traverse on the (boltless) firs...
Ray leading the P1 traverse on the (boltless) firs...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at Ray on belay from just below the c...
Looking down at Ray on belay from just below the c...
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting through the offwidth pod on the second pit...
Getting through the offwidth pod on the second pit...

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