Chuckwalla

Chuckwalla takes an airy yet moderate line on the outer edge of Lizardhead Cove. Fun climbing in the sunshine and plenty of local character. Short approach to three short but unique pitches and a classic finish.

Pitch 1: (5.8, 80 feet) Start at the notch between the detached pillar (Samurai Warrior) and the main wall. Quest out on a horizontal traverse, riding the Fort Apache limestone band out into thin air. The first half is fairly loose but also fairly easy (low-5th) and protects quite well with small cams in a continuous horizontal groove. About halfway across, mount a small detached flake and clip two bolts along an exciting line of huecos. This pitch ends at a two-bolt chain anchor on the far edge of the wall.

Pitch 2: (5.8, 70 feet) Launch yourself straight upward from the belay through a bit of cruddy rock (good nuts and small cams) to gain the sinker handcrack. Jam through the bulge into easier terrain, then negotiate a short offwidth pod. Avoid the final stretch of hollow flakes by slab-traversing 10 feet right onto the tips-dihedral finish for Underbelly. Two-bolt belay on ledge.

Pitch 3: (5.10, 70 feet) This pitch will keep your attention the whole way. All features have been thoroughly tested. Start in a shallow dihedral/seam, inching past a string of wacky pods. Don't feed the agave. Crank into the overhang with sporty moves on wild flakes, then bust through the roof on meaty handjams. Keep chugging up the steep handcrack to the top ledge. Walk straight through the gap between cacti and scramble little 4th-class slab to the anchor tree (cordalette placed Jan 2018).

Easy scrambling up and left to the uppermost shelf where you can soak in the panorama and/or venture over to the routes on North Lizardhead.

Rappel the route with one 60m rope.

Start at the notch in the limestone band between the pillar (Samurai Warrior) and the main wall.

Single rack to 4"
+ extra 2" cam for 3rd pitch
Single 60m rope