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YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 98
Submitted By: Lauren D. Hollingsworth on Jun 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


The crux is near the top. It is not the greatest climb at Devil's Head.


This climbs the narrow band of rock that faces south.



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By Chad M
From: Castle Rock, CO
May 24, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

If you're a 5.9 leader, be careful on this one. The book gives it a 9+, and from the ground it looks fairly easy. But if you stay with the line of bolts this route is hard, especially compared to the two 9's to its left. The anchors are spaced very far apart as well, so bring long runners if you're going to TR it.
By Marley Hodgson
From: CO
Jun 1, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun variety of moves. Slabby down low then a short crack section before the crux. Crux moves are a bit tricky to figure out. Bolts are all exactly where they need to be except the anchors are spaced too far apart. Felt pretty stiff for 9+.
By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
Jul 18, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

The crack section was fun, but other than that I didn't like this one. Dirty ledges, second bolt way too far above first one, garbage anchors. Definitely harder than 9.
By Crag Dweller
From: New York, NY
Aug 21, 2010
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Agree that this is pretty stiff for a 9 if you follow the bolt line. Going right makes it easier, but it's not all that much fun. The anchor bolts are def too far apart.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Sep 8, 2010

The anchors were upgraded on this one on 9/6/10 with a new stainless anchor much closer to the previous right hand anchor. The original placements were a function of the trapeeze act needed to install them in the first place.

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