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YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
Season: All year - first 7 clips
Page Views: 3,825
Submitted By: jonah on Mar 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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The obvious line with fixed draws immediately left of Reptiles. There is always someone on this, and it's a great climb to play around on during after-work sessions.

Starts with 2 bolts of 5.9 (don't fall or you and your belayer will be really unhappy). Then the business starts with a funky undercling/mini-dihedral section on slick, techy feet. 3 more clips takes you to an OK rest on the keyboard (Californicator branches left here). Straight up on small crimps and gastons takes you up to the roof and a shake. Finishes by pulling the roof on OK crimps and up to a burly gaston move that sets you up for clipping the anchor. The redpoint crux is redpointing the beast (which I haven't).


11 clips. A 60 will get you down, but a 70 is better for peace of mind. You will be in space way out from the ledge when you lower, so push off the tree to get back in.

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By jonah
Jul 6, 2006

I noticed yesterday that the jug you clip the first bolt from is loose. If this thing ever breaks, you and your belayer are screwed, so heads up.
By Ryan Triplett
Jul 17, 2006

Unless you clip the belay bolt :)
By Drewsky
Aug 13, 2012

The clipping jug for the first bolt continues to look more and more suspect (toaster sized piece of rock cracked ALL the way through). Definitely clip into the belay bolt until your climber has a few draws clipped!
By Ben Gilkison
Aug 24, 2015

The FFA history on this, including all the drama and anchor transplantation would be nice here.
By Drewsky
Aug 24, 2015

I'll just go ahead and post that tale, based solely on hearsay and rumor. What I heard is that Erik Kubiak originally bolted Chronic as we know it today with potentially fewer bolts. Legend has it that Bryan Burdo added some bolts and freed it to below the final redpoint crux above the roof. I'm not sure whether it had already been redpointed by Erik or not. Either not wanting or not able to free the rest, Bryan doubled the bolt below the roof, moving the anchor lower and calling the route .13b. Then, what I heard is that Erik reestablished the route to its original finish and d-d-d-d-downgraded the rig to .13a! But we all know it's .13b, y'know? Now correct my info if I'm wrong! This should be fun.
By aggressiveperfector
Aug 12, 2017

Please please please!!! Someone do the community a service and rebolt this route!!! This has to be one of the best routes in the pacific NW. There's a mix of shitty rusted old bolts on this thing. They all need to be chopped and replaced. There are some very old 3/8 inch non stainless on it that I'm sure have taken many Falls. Highly suggest half inch 5 piece stainless Rawl bolts. Or even better half inch glue in bolts. This Crag gets way too much moisture for anything other than stainless . I'd do it myself if I was hanging around for more than just a weekend.

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