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The King Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Wack and Dangle Job T 
Chronic Fixation S 
Elusive Dream (pitch 1 only) T 
Four Guns Blazing S 
Keep, The T 
Kingdom Come S 
Prince, The T 
Wall Ruler-King and I (linkup) T 
Working Wives S,TR 

Chronic Fixation 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Patrick Purcell, Patrick Munn 9/92
Page Views: 1,739
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Jun 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Graham McDowell starring down the anchors trying t...


Chronic Fixation is one of the few "warm-ups" for the harder routes of this cliff. It tackles the short, but stout face 150 feet to the left of Kingdom Come.

Off the deck, engaging moves lure the climber to either side of the first two bolts, then the route sends the climber groping for positive patina along the sloping rails riddling the face. The final crux comes right below the anchor with a painful series of crimps and gastons. The route doesn't let up until you've clipped the anchors.


At the apex of the hiking trail to the cliff is a large, black detached block leaning against the cliff with a dirty crack running up the middle of it. Chronic Fixation is the line of bolts to the left of this block.


five bolts.

Photos of Chronic Fixation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pali leading up Chronic Fixation. Although this ro...
Pali leading up Chronic Fixation. Although this ro...

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By Rafiki
Jun 10, 2007

One of my favorite sport climbs on the most impressive face in Keene Valley. Surprisingly..most of the holds on this route are pretty big, but it saves the best moves for last.
By Mitch Hoffman
From: Fonda NY
Jul 19, 2010

An awesome climb, but beware of the heat! This wall is east/southeast facing and black, making it an oven in the summer time.
By Dom R
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Oct 26, 2014

great movement on this. Open hand holds on rails along with positive crimps on the steep wall makes for some sustained pumpy fun.
By Nick Weinberg
From: Lyme, NH
Jun 12, 2015

Fun pumpy sport climb, and one of the few warm ups on the wall. If you can get up this you can get up pitch 1 of Kingdom Come. Also do Wall Ruler.

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