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Silver Cascade Slab aka Hesitation Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Science S 
Chronic Bedwetter S 
Hesitation S 
Intensive Care T,S 
Johnson Route S 
Ladder Route T,S,TR 
Reality Check S 
Robertson Wall S 
Silver Left T 
Tunnel Vision T,S,TR 

Chronic Bedwetter 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: [Stewart Green & Brett Spencer-Green in 1994]
Page Views: 992
Submitted By: Darin Lang on Feb 15, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Reopened after flood damage! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Like all the slab routes at Silver Cascade, the crux section is well protected with a long runout to the top on easier ground. This will be the third bolted route from the left, adjacent to Robertson Wall. Sustained 5.7 through all the bolts, and then about a 50 ft runout to the top on easy ground (5.2 or so). Anchor at the top is best set using trees and very long sling, but an acceptable spot can be located for a #1 Camalot and a couple of medium stoppers.

Protection 

4 bolts plus a very long sling for top anchor.


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By Barrett Cooper
Jun 14, 2002

So what is up with the runout? I mean it is a little hairy on the last couple moves when you are 50 feet above the last manky bolt, even if it is 5.2 to 5.6ish rock depending on the line you take. IMHO skidding 100+ feet down that slab would really suck. If someone has the means to put something in, I wouldn't complain.
By ROC
From: Englewood, CO
Mar 5, 2003

Did this route a couple weeks back. I feel the same way about the run out especially getting to that 1st bolt. I used some pro in the crack under the little roof at the end that gave a little extra security. Not a bad climb though.
By Stewart M. Green
May 5, 2003

The first bolt on this route as well as Reality Check are high because people will chop them or steal the hangers if they can get to them. I had a bolt on that upper runout that was chopped in 1995. Also an anchor on the narrow ledge below both routes was also chopped in 1995. That's the reality...if someone, usually a non-climber, can get to a bolt, they will steal the hanger...
By Larry Shaw
Nov 29, 2003

You can put pro in the horizontal crack near the top or slide left 5 or 10 ft and clip an old piton just above the vertical section. The runout's not bad.

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