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Vallée Blanche Basin
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Chèré Goulotte (Gully) 
Contamine Grisolle 
Kuffner Ridge T 
Mont Blanc du Tacul Regular Route 
Perroux-Profit Goulotte 
Tour Ronde North Face 
Vent du Dragon 

Chèré Goulotte (Gully) 

AI4

   
Type:  Ice, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1150', Grade II
Original: AI4 [details]
FA: Robert Chèré and Jacques Tranchant, August 8, 1973
Season: year round
Page Views: 363
Submitted By: Rui Ferreira on Jul 31, 2015

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Getting that vert!

Description 

This is a very popular ice climb on the Triangle du Tacul. Low on objective dangers but expect to have others parties above and below you. It can be done in 6 pitches to the top of the gully and then two or three additional pitches trending right on easy snow and mixed get you to the top of the shoulder providing access the normal route of Mont Blanc du Tacul. There are fixed rappels stations from pitch 6 down the gully, if you go to the top of the shoulder traverse right on steep snow to the normal route and walk down. The down climb on the normal route is both exposed to seracs and can have avalanche hazard (safer to rappel the route). P1 45-degree ice/snow, P2-50 degree ice/snow, P3- up to 75 degree ice or about 20 feet of rock (M3) climbed on the right side if in lean conditions. P4 - up to 85 degree of ice and the traditional crux pitch, P5 - less steep with short section of 80 degree ice. P6 - up to 60 degree ice and snow.

About 4 hours to climb the main difficulties. It is 550 meters from the bergschrund to the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul (4238 meters, 13,904 feet)

Location 

Triangle du Tacul is the broad rock pyramid on the North side of Mont Blanc du Tacul. Readily visible from the station on Aiguille du Midi. The climb is the most prominent ice gully on the right side of the pyramid, simply follow the most tracked path to its base. During periods of deep snow, the first pitch will be covered in snow. 45 minutes from Aiguille du Midi or about 20 minutes from Refuge des Cosmiques

Protection 

standard ice rack and small assortment of rock gear during lean ice conditions (Camalots C4 0.75 to 2 and nuts). There are fixed belay/rappel stations until the top of the gully.


Photos of Chèré Goulotte (Gully) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: looking across to the ordinary route descent from ...
BETA PHOTO: looking across to the ordinary route descent from ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Triangle du Tacul as seen from Aiguille du Midi. T...
BETA PHOTO: Triangle du Tacul as seen from Aiguille du Midi. T...
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down from P4 belay
looking down from P4 belay
Rock Climbing Photo: fourth pitch pretty well tracked
fourth pitch pretty well tracked
Rock Climbing Photo: the third pitch can offer some easy mixed climbing
BETA PHOTO: the third pitch can offer some easy mixed climbing
Rock Climbing Photo: better get there early
BETA PHOTO: better get there early
Rock Climbing Photo: The Chere is the prominent ice gully center right....
BETA PHOTO: The Chere is the prominent ice gully center right....

Comments on Chèré Goulotte (Gully) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rui Ferreira
From: Longmont, CO
Sep 30, 2015

video of the route

By chrisccc
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 29, 2016
rating: AI4

Mixed up to M4 can be added to the rating.