|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, 500'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||coreylee on Aug 18, 2008 with updates from Adam Duchac|
|Comments on Chouinard B||Add Comment|
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Oct 12, 2013
|Pretty sure there is a bolt halfway up the slab section of the first pitch|
By Karl Heine
From: The City of Progress
May 24, 2014
|The flake on pitch 2 felt extraordinarily insecure at the end of May 2014. Pitches 4 and 5 are absolutely fantastic climbing.|
By Nat D
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 10, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Korean guide shows the following grades:
I would say that it lies somewhere between what is posted here and what is labeled on the Korean guidebook page I uploaded. P4 is definitely a stout 5.7; and given the fact that the 5th Pitch is very run out protection-wise, maybe a 5.6R would be more appropriate. There is some long-fall potential on the 5th pitch until you get about 10-15m into it.
The flakes on P2 and 3 are definitely hollow sounding these days, there has even been some signs of recent break-offs on P2. (I think its the same flake mentioned by Karl Heine from May 2014)
Very engaging climbing, I thought it was a good route. The hollow flakes are a little worrisome though. This route is a very obvious sub-surface drainage-channel for rainwater coming off from the east side of the mountain, and given the freeze-thaw cycle here in the winter, I imagine that these flakes were solid back at the time of the FA. I could literally hear, very clearly, the party on the left side of the major arete as I climbed up....there is some major airspace underneath the Chuinard B crack system. I wonder how many more years/decades until P2/3 in particular becomes quite different.
There are many new bolts and anchors as of OCT 2016, so that is good. Not really more in number, but the old stuff has been replaced.