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Chouinard B 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Yvonne Chouinard
Page Views: 1,322
Submitted By: coreylee on Aug 18, 2008  with updates from Adam Duchac

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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2

Description 

Pitch 1: 5.6 Follow the nice finger/hand crack up to a bolted anchor. Pass the anchor and head up the slab 7 meters until you reach another anchor. There is a bolt half way up the slab section, reducing the chance of a ground fall.

Pitch 2: 5.8 Following the thin flake to your right and up. You will encounter two pitons and two bolts in this section. Here a few smaller pieces will do you good. Very unstable flake in the last 1/3 of the pitch. Try to avoid stepping on at all costs.

Pitch 3: 5.6 At the anchors rock over, above the tree, to the natural crack line. Here it is super cruiser with plenty of opportunities to throw in gear.

Pitch 4: 5.8 44 meters of wonderful climbing. This is a great section of the climb offering great movement and beautiful rock. Follow the right facing crack to a cave area. Once your in the cave area you can clip a bolt, use a long runner, and traverse right. Here you are just below two amazing matching hand cracks. Follow this up 10 meters until you reach the mushroom head belay.

Pitch 5: 5.8 This section of the route starts with 7 meters of chimney climbing, hard to protect unless you have big gear, or look in the back of the chimney for better spots. Follow the chimney up until it thins out and you can get great hand jams. Following this section leads you to the East summit of the rock.

Location 

Located just North of the "Grand Slab." Follow the base of the buttress North about 100 meters and you will soon notice the beautiful finger/hand crack. Descending is quite easy, as there are bolted anchors everywhere. I usually haul up another rope to make things quicker, but you could manage with one 60 meter rope.

Protection 

A single set of cams and smaller nuts would do you just fine on this route. There are a few bolts and pitons in the thin, hard to find placement, sections.


Photos of Chouinard B Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The top double-hand crack on Pitch 4
BETA PHOTO: The top double-hand crack on Pitch 4
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 5
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 5
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 4
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 4
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Full Route, also using this for pitch 1 picture
BETA PHOTO: Full Route, also using this for pitch 1 picture
Rock Climbing Photo: Chuinard B Topo
BETA PHOTO: Chuinard B Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Four climbers about to start the second pitch
BETA PHOTO: Four climbers about to start the second pitch

Comments on Chouinard B Add Comment
Show which comments
By davidh
Oct 12, 2013

Pretty sure there is a bolt halfway up the slab section of the first pitch
By Karl Heine
From: The City of Progress
May 24, 2014

The flake on pitch 2 felt extraordinarily insecure at the end of May 2014. Pitches 4 and 5 are absolutely fantastic climbing.
By Nat D
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 10, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The Korean guide shows the following grades:

P1: 5.7
P2: 5.8
P3: 5.6
P4: 5.7
P5: 5.6

I would say that it lies somewhere between what is posted here and what is labeled on the Korean guidebook page I uploaded. P4 is definitely a stout 5.7; and given the fact that the 5th Pitch is very run out protection-wise, maybe a 5.6R would be more appropriate. There is some long-fall potential on the 5th pitch until you get about 10-15m into it.

The flakes on P2 and 3 are definitely hollow sounding these days, there has even been some signs of recent break-offs on P2. (I think its the same flake mentioned by Karl Heine from May 2014)

Very engaging climbing, I thought it was a good route. The hollow flakes are a little worrisome though. This route is a very obvious sub-surface drainage-channel for rainwater coming off from the east side of the mountain, and given the freeze-thaw cycle here in the winter, I imagine that these flakes were solid back at the time of the FA. I could literally hear, very clearly, the party on the left side of the major arete as I climbed up....there is some major airspace underneath the Chuinard B crack system. I wonder how many more years/decades until P2/3 in particular becomes quite different.

There are many new bolts and anchors as of OCT 2016, so that is good. Not really more in number, but the old stuff has been replaced.