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Chouinard A 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Yvonne Chouinard
Page Views: 1,215
Submitted By: coreylee on Aug 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Topo Image

Description 

This is a left-facing off-width crack that provides amazing endurance driven climbing.

Pitch 1: 55 meters of 5.8 climbing.

Pitch 2: 40 meters of 5.10 off-width. This is, for good reason, the crux of the route. Pull through the roof with a nice fist jam and make your way up the crack.

Pitch 3: 30 meters of 5.7 chimney climbing.

Pitch 4: 20 meters of 5.6 climbing and a scramble to the top.

Each anchor is bolted with beautiful American Death Triangles.
There are bolted anchors everywhere, pick one! I always bring an extra rope to make the raps quicker. However, you can make it to the bottom, after a few more raps, with a single 60 meter.

Location 

200 meters North of the "Grand Slab" you will see the natural line. It is a left facing off-width crack.

Protection 

You could manage this climb with a single set of cams, but I recommend bringing an extra #3. There are bolted anchors everywhere.


Photos of Chouinard A Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo Map
BETA PHOTO: Topo Map
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1
Pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 continued (taken from ledge)
Pitch 1 continued (taken from ledge)
Rock Climbing Photo: The obvious left facing crack line on the right si...
BETA PHOTO: The obvious left facing crack line on the right si...

Comments on Chouinard A Add Comment
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By Nat D
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 10, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This thing was pretty hard, but super solid rock and clean.

This is one long jam-fest. Followers can layback a good deal of it, but the leader needs to be solid at hand-fist and slightly larger off width jamming.

I definitely couldn't have led the route when I climbed it, I just followed, but it would be a really fun lead if it was in my ability range.

The anchors are all brand new as of 2016, double bolts with a real chain and standard rap rings on some of the ones that are commonly rappeled off from. No more american death triangles! Intermediate bolts along the route are also new.
By Earl
From: Korea, Osan AB
Mar 25, 2017

Uhmm, the 4th pitch is 5.10, not the 2nd.

P1-5.6
P2-5.7
P3-5.8
P4-5.10
P5-5.6
Rappel the route or one of the others that top out on the same ledge

Anchors good. Rad route!

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