REI Community
The Riviera
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abandonment T 
Au Natural T 
Beach Bum T,S,TR 
Birthday Suit T,S,TR 
Bosch Blanket Bingo S 
Chouette T,S 
Dancing Hippos T 
Devin's Dihedral T,S,TR 
Infestation T,S 
Le Nouveau Riche T,S,TR 
Le Nouveau Riche Variation T,TR 
Lease Agreement S 
Minstrel, The S 
Monte Carlo S 
New Lease on Life S 
Sea Breeze S 
Silver Glide S 
Splash T,S,TR 
Topless Etiquette S 
Unknown Trad Line T 
Zig Zag Crack T,TR 

Chouette 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Stef Striech and Rob Stanley, 1997
Page Views: 7,054
Submitted By: Michael Walker on Apr 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (147)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Over the crux.

  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is the second route from the right. This route is great for morning sunshine. It also has fine granite and varied climbing making this a pleasant cruise. No drama on gear, no drama on lead. A good warm-up.

    Start by climbing up the left side of a large flake via a wide crack. Gain a comfortable stance on top of the flake and then follow two bolts across the face via nice cracks to gain a left-facing corner that angles up to the right. Follow another crack that angles left at a break in the corner. Follow this crack to a steep face and then past two more bolts to the right to gain the anchor for Splash. Rap 80' to the ground.

    This route has a Dream Canyon-esque feel with its fine granite and mixed gear. I don't know why, but I like this route; maybe because it's nice and long, you can actually slot a nut or two, and it's not right in the thick of things. In French the name can be translated as 'splendid' or 'swell'. I concur.

    Protection 

    Mixed bag: small rack; plan for the obvious wide crack at the start (nice big hex slots in there) and thin cracks (medium stoppers, smaller cams). 4 QDs for bolts. Shares two bolt anchor with Splash.

    Eds. There are now 2 Metolius rap hangers each with 2 links for the anchors. Addendum: someone added links to the Metolius rap hangers.


    Photos of Chouette Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Eva on lead, higher up.
    Eva on lead, higher up.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The crack between bolts two and three, showing bol...
    BETA PHOTO: The crack between bolts two and three, showing bol...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Kristin on Chouette.  Photo by Ben Lane.
    Kristin on Chouette. Photo by Ben Lane.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Eva leading Chouette.
    Eva leading Chouette.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Me leading Chouette near the first bolt which is ~...
    Me leading Chouette near the first bolt which is ~...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jaclyn, 9, 4'4", moving through the right sta...
    Jaclyn, 9, 4'4", moving through the right sta...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Leyes at the top of Chouette.
    Mike Leyes at the top of Chouette.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Climber: Mike Leyes Photographer: Josh Meyer Route...
    Climber: Mike Leyes Photographer: Josh Meyer Route...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Katie Assmann cleaning Chouette at The Riviera.
    Katie Assmann cleaning Chouette at The Riviera.

    Comments on Chouette Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 30, 2013
    By Brian T. Wandzilak
    Aug 29, 2002

    I agree with Michael about this route. I am almost certain I started it wrong, but that just made i tlonger and more interesting. Bring a bunch of draws, probably more than you think you'll need. A nice view of Boulder Canyon from the belay. A 60m rope will easily get you to the bottom. I recommend some aliens and some smaller nuts, but don't take my word for it.
    By Aron Quiter
    Administrator
    From: Oakland, CA
    Sep 6, 2002

    There's 4 bolts, why is so much pro needed? It's only a 5.6! The runout part is a staircase, just don't climb it when it's wet out.This would be a great route for teaching people a trad for all the same reasons.
    By Brian T. Wandzilak
    Oct 26, 2002

    As a side to my comment above: I am still a beginning trad leader, so despite the bolts and level of climbing, I still have issues with protecting my climb. I do this for two reasons: 1) I want to make sure I am secure, and 2) I like practicing gear placements while on an easier route. After looking a various guidebooks and critiquing my climb there was not as much need for gear. But, a good route to practice placin' it nonetheless.
    By Tonya Clement
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 27, 2003

    Great little "beginning of the season" route. I found I placed about three extra pieces (a small cam, an Alien and a nut) here and there just for the added confidence. Why not, as it is good practice.

    This is a great place to come if you don't have a lot of time and you wanna get in a quick pitch or two. If this route doesn't challenge you, jump on Splash directly to the right.
    By Roy Stedman
    Jul 3, 2003

    Unless 5.6 or 5,7 is your limit, you'll only "need" one piece and maybe not even that. Something finger-crack-sized will be fine.
    By shad O'Neel
    Aug 1, 2003

    What a great route for someone learning how to place gear. The few bolts would give that feeling of extra security to a new leader, but there are ample straightforward gear placements on this route and its neightboor, Splash.
    By Jake Wyatt
    From: Longmont, CO
    Sep 6, 2003

    Even for a route that's "only" 5.6, I was glad I brought along a couple of pieces of small gear for the section between the first two bolts and the last two bolts.
    By James Garnett
    From: Bellingham, WA
    May 28, 2004

    Did this in the morning before work; it's just about right for that kind of climb. Short and unsustained, yes, but with some pleasing moves nonetheless. I'll second (or third?) the notion that Aliens and a few stoppers will do the trick for pro here... wear a helmet, though. People wandering around above you will be knocking stuff down.
    By Gary Schmidt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 6, 2005

    A fun route. If you are uncomfortable with the runout a couple of smaller cams should be adequate for the nice crack (which u can't see from the base). This route shares the same anchors as Splash to the right which is not really the best as it not in a direct line so be prepared for some possible swings.
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 17, 2005

    WARNING: Loose Anchors!!

    First and foremost, both anchors at the top of this route are loose and spinning a bit. I am no expert, but I'm pretty sure that's not good. Are there people that monitor routes around here? I'm just starting to get outside, so I don't really know what to do besides report the loose anchors...

    Anyhow, as someone who is a moderate sport leader (5.9 ish) and just beginning to lead Trad, I thought this was a great route to practice placing gear on. I placed a Wild Country Rock #7 and a 0.5 Tricam (finger size pro) on two different cracks above the 2nd bolt. The cracks are not very far away from the 2nd bolt, so I fell on my gear (on purpose) in order to evaluate my placements better. I would not be a big fan of the runout between the 2nd and 3rd bolts if I did not have pro. Then again, I am a beginner.

    -ajs
    By J. Fox
    From: Black Hawk, CO
    Nov 4, 2007

    Climbed it today 11/4/07 and the anchor hangers still spin, but the bolts seem solid. The second bolt on the route is loose as well. I tightened it as best I could with my fingers, but someone with a wrench may want to tighten it more.
    By DamageVic
    From: Coal Creek Canyon, CO
    Jul 15, 2009

    Climbed yesterday- fun, easy route that takes more gear than you might think. The hanger on the 2nd or 3rd bolt was loose, I tightened the nut as much as I could by hand...a wrench would be in order at some point in the near future. The anchors seemed solid though.
    By Chris Plesko
    From: Westminster, CO
    Jun 6, 2010
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    This is a fine route for a beginning trad leader. There are feet all over the place so rests are plentiful. I had a friend do her first lead here today. I preplaced gear so she could just clip and this thing can be sewn up. The 4 bolts are just an extra bonus to me. Plus I find the movement much more fun and interesting than Splash to the right.
    By Derek W
    Aug 2, 2010

    FYI, there is a fixed nut about halfway between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. I didn't work on getting it out too much so I'm not so certain as to the "fixed" nature of it, but it does fix the small run out between the bolts. I led this as sport only (with the addition of that fixed nut) and it felt reasonably well protected.
    By Chris Plesko
    From: Westminster, CO
    May 22, 2011
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    No fixed gear but the bolts.
    By enealhoya
    Jun 25, 2011

    Anchors still seem sketchy/loose/weathered to me. Didn't let my belayer top-rope it. Plus, it sees tons of traffic.

    P.S. - I lead 10 and still placed two cams. Route didn't seem that easy to me.
    By Joshinator
    From: Longmont, Colorado
    May 16, 2012

    Anchors are still a bit loose and spinning. Top roped on 'em nonetheless. They're probably okay, but someone should think about replacing them. This route would be really safe with a set of nuts.
    By Greg Hand
    From: Golden, CO
    May 30, 2012

    I checked the anchor today. The bolts cannot be tightened, because they are Rawls and will not tighten. They looked good other than the hangers being loose. I added a 3rd bolt to give everyone warm fuzzy feelings. Especially since these are popular beginner routes.
    By John Tex
    From: Estes
    Mar 19, 2013
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    Did it today with 4 bolts and a 3 bolt anchor. Don't think it's necessary to use all three as they all seemed sturdy to me. Led without any gear but quickdraws and had about a 25 foot runout between the second and third bolt. Climbing between the second and third was some of the easier climbing on the route.

    Had someone toprope after me and no problem with the anchors. Definitely had a 3rd bolt added to the anchors so there shouldn't be any more fuss about them.
    By farkas.time
    From: Albuquerque, NM
    Jun 10, 2013
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Excellent climb. I gave this one 5.7. Definitely an easy-moderate but some difficult movement on small holds in places. Not a cake walk.

    Bring a #0.5 Camalot for the start and some small nuts for the mid-section. Alternatively, if you're solid at 5.6, don't bother with trad gear -- these spots are on the easy side for this climb.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Oct 30, 2013
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    I placed two mid-sized nuts between the second and third bolts. I brought cams, but I did not use them.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About