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Chossology T 
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Chossology 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Z. Harrison, B. McCord
Season: When you hate yourself
Page Views: 124
Submitted By: Blake M on Dec 16, 2016

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Blake testing the holds. Nope, not up to standards...

Description 

A fine looking crack system on south facing wall behind Screaming Beseingi. While the line looks good, choss, munge, soft rock and blocks try and ruin the day. They succeed.

P1 5.9, 60 feet.
The Viagra pitch, it never gets hard. Climb a mungey thin hands to a detached flake with a bolt. Stem, pray and jam through softening rock to the rubble covered slab where another bolt awaits. Bolted belay in blocks of ultimate choss.

P2 5.11+ 110 feet.
"Crux pitch" Move left past blocks to hand crack in clean corner. Fortunately, everything is covered in silt, creating the perception of bad rock. Punch fists to sketch piller pulling. Crank layback past roof to looming big roof. Unpleasant contortionist crux on fragile holds and silt leads to bolted OW of dried pancake batter. Bolted belay.

P3 5.10+ 50 feet.
Step left past a bolt and execute terribly awkward sequence to corner. Awkward hand crack leads to EZ blocky terrain. Belay atop sofa block on fingers gears.

P4 5.10 75 feet.
"The almost good pitch". Step left to the leftmost crack above. Starts with fists and goes to hands. After a loose ledge punch up thinning crack to bolted belay. Climbs better than it looks, looks better then it climbs.

P5 5.9+ 50 feet
"The good pitch" Wide Layback to slot. Enter no hands rest. Bizarre, exposed and awkward.

Hike 3rd Class past terrible features to summit.

Location 

Behind Screaming Besingi. South facing. Go up gulley East of Firecat Spire to limestone ledge. hike right on exposed ledge to bolted belay. Rap route with 70 meter and check into rehab.

Protection 

1x tip and thin fingers. 2x fingers to fists. Several runners. Low self esteem.


Photos of Chossology Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chossology route
Chossology route
Rock Climbing Photo: Final move. Quintessential Sedona wierdo.
Final move. Quintessential Sedona wierdo.
Rock Climbing Photo: P4 on the FA. Blake almost having fun.
P4 on the FA. Blake almost having fun.

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