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Chossdergarten T 
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Chossdergarten 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c X [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 88
Submitted By: Jason Platt on Jul 4, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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BETA PHOTO: At the crux move once finally reaching solid rock.

Description 

Start in the middle of the east face of the pinnacle directly below the rappel anchors on a small ledge in the gully. Climb on very crumbly rock for 15-20 feet with little to no gear placements up to your left to a ledge. The climbing is probably only 5.4-5.5, but the rock makes is harder. In front of you on the ledge, there is a crack heading up over a slight overhang. You can finally place some really solid gear in this crack. Crank the overhang, and you are basically at the top.

The technical crux is at the overhang, but the mental crux is the bottom while you are climbing on very broken rock with very little protection. A fall here would likely be a groundfall, since the gear you place probably won't hold.

Even though I give this an R safety rating, this is the most solid climb on the east face of the pinnacle. I pulled off huge rocks trying to climb farther left and right of this route.

I only give this a star because the feature you get on is pretty cool. The climbing is honestly a bomb for sure down low since it is so rotten.

If this is your route, feel free to let me know. The anchors were there when I climbed it, so this has probably been climbed before.

Protection 

Standard rack. There are 3 rappel anchors at the top of the climb.


Photos of Chossdergarten Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Just before the crux. You can see the poor rock qu...
Just before the crux. You can see the poor rock qu...

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