Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Army Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Boot Camp S 
Choss Roof T 
Ex-Green Beret T,TR 
Ice Cream Crack T 
Ice Cream Sunday TR 
Rooster, The S 
Tree Crack T 

Choss Roof 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: unknown
Season: Summer, Fall, Spring
Page Views: 225
Submitted By: infiniteforests on Oct 31, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Reopened after flood damage! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a different route than the 5.3 face climb listed in Bob and Carrie Robertson's guide to the area.

Starting just left of the tree on the ledge, climb up to a left-facing arete that eventually contours into a roof. Traverse 20 or 30 feet left under the roof to the anchor for Ice Cream Crack.

There most definitely is some choss on the climb, but we tried to clean it up as much as we could, but still be wary of loose rock. It has a nice alpine feel to me for some reason, probably because of the lichen and loose rock encountered, but the climbing is fun enough to make it worth doing at least once.

Location 

This is the rightmost route on the Army Slabs. Start to the left of the tree growing out of the ledge.

Protection 

Cams up to 2.5". I didn't see many opportunities for nuts or other passive pro (although you could probably use some tricams if you want). Traverse left to the two bolt anchors for Ice Cream Crack.

This used just about an entire 60m rope, so you might want to avoid this if you have a shorter rope.


Comments on Choss Roof Add Comment
Show which comments
By ScottKime
Nov 11, 2015
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

Very loose rock made for few good placements. I missed the 2-bolt anchor at the top of Ice Cream Crack, and ended up going towards the top of the slab to an anchor with one bolt next to a vertical, embedded piece of old steel pipe. This was an adequate anchor but would be hard to top-rope from - a 70m single rope rappel barely made it to a ledge about 20 ft. off the base of the climb. Only recommended if you enjoy the challenge of choss - the route is aptly named.