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Choss Factor 10  

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: unknown and I made up the name. Claim it and I'll change it.
Page Views: 68
Submitted By: Russ Walling on Nov 14, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Choss Factor 10

Description 

Start with a blind bolt clip on the rounded chossy flare. Work your way up into the super grotty chimney or do a few bold face moves up the arete. Either way a fall will probably knock you silly. Clip another bolt which seems to be after the crux (not good for your longevity) and then wander up the face and grainy cracks to the top. If you have pro, place it. If you do not, well, carry on and keep your wits about you.

Location 

Starts just left of Magic Pig with a blind-ish bolt clip out on what could be called an arete. Mussy Hooks at the top.

Protection 

3 bolts on the route and up high you could lob in a cam or two in the 1" to 2" range.


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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 14, 2016

What a pile, not worth doing even off the valley floor. Working the arete on the start is better than the gravel slot/shelf climbers left. Both are awful. Unless you're on a tick the AHiils tour, move along.

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