REI Community
South Park
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Choss Avoidance Syndrome S 
Corner Bakery S 
Drillers Moon S,TR 
Groove, The S 
Half 'n' Half T 
Shit Faced in Tuskaloosa S 
Women with Power Tools S 

Choss Avoidance Syndrome 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 203
Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on Jun 12, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Heading toward the one star rock


As the name implies good route finding and astute choice of holds avoids choss and enhances route quality and the fun factor. Begin left of the large hueco on stellar holds on the orange patina plates. Clip the 1st bolt and continue up using the plates for hand and foot holds until a mantle leads to a stance atop the patina plates, being careful of the hollow exfoliated gong-like flake above. If you must use the hollow flake to complete the mantle gently pull down and not out. There's not much holding that "flake" in place. Move left onto the face and climb up on good edges and crimps on a broad black pillar to the anchor. Poor route finding or choice of holds could lead to a choss master's paradise.


Left of the center of the north face of South Park.


5 bolts & chain anchor.

Photos of Choss Avoidance Syndrome Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: South Park. Choss Avoidance Syndrome climbs the or...
South Park. Choss Avoidance Syndrome climbs the or...

Comments on Choss Avoidance Syndrome Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jodi Friedlander
Oct 9, 2016

Fun route, especially the opening moves. Not really that much choss to avoid, but where's there IS choss, it's muy bad.
By Russ Walling
Nov 14, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The plates are neat and feature some nice pulling. The rest of the route is standard chossy fair. 1.633 stars.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 14, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Three stars for the first two bolts, the rock feature color and overall movement is super good. Then comes the grains and creaky holds dropping to one start for the upper 2/3rds. Combined rating... 2 stars and worth climbing sans those damn chains that you need to thread.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About