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El Segundo Buttress
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Beckey Route T 
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Chortle 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 750', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Don Womack & Dean Kisling, 6/1988
Page Views: 280
Submitted By: Mike Stearns on Sep 10, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Chortle. Dashed behind mini tower. Photo credit Bl...

Portal Road Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Honestly, we only climbed a portion of the route after getting off the Beckey route.

The pitches seem to be:

P1 - moderate approach pitch angling slightly up and left towards the slab left of large roof, 5.7?
P2 - 7
P3 - 9, bolt + gear
P4 - tricky 5.10 slab, this is the pitch we climbed
P5 - topo indicates this is the crux pitch, did not climb
P6 - ? the buttress eases back, and like the Beckey, the rating probably eases a bit

Location 

Left of Beckey route.

Protection 

crux pitches are bolted, spaced but adequate. Standard Portal rack up to 3.5" or so?


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By Richard Shore
Sep 10, 2013

Unless the bolts on this rig have been replaced, I remember them all being 1/4" button heads. They did look good at the time (2012) with no rust and no spinners.
By Mike Stearns
Sep 11, 2013

That's sounds right Rich. I honestly can't remember despite that it was only two days ago. We also only climbed the one middle 10a pitch (which felt hard for the grade, btw).

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