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BETA PHOTO: The route
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Spicy face start protects with a 0.4 Camalot. Climb up to a crack on the left that can take finger sized gear with not so great rock and lots of lichen. Make a rightwards crack switch to a thank god hand jam and good pro. The crack quickly widens into #5 and #6 camalots and stays that way for the majority of the climb. Once on top of the pillar, traverse right ~10 ft to the Beaster Sunday chains.
Some hollow sounding rock.
Bring your A game for the 1st 15 ft.
Left side of the Beaster Sunday Pillar, left of where the trail meets the wall.
Singles from fingers-wide hands and (2X) #5 and #6 camalots