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Camp 4 Wall
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Buttocks, The T 
Cheek T 
Chopper T 
Cid's Embrace T 
Doggie Deviations T 
Doggie Diversions T 
Doggie Do T,TR 
Edge of Night T 
Good Ol' Boy T 
Henley Quits T 
Lancelot T 
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Tweedle Dee T 
Young and the Restless T 


YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mead Hargis and Rick Sylvester (1971)
Page Views: 722
Submitted By: Bryan G on Dec 18, 2011

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Chopper has all the trappings of a classic pitch of Yosemite crack climbing. It's clean, steep, burly, and sustained all the way to the anchors. It will test your hand and fist jamming techniques as well as your lieback and offwidth skills.

Walk a short ways past the "Doggie" climbs and you will see this intimidating flake. The crux comes at the obvious section where the flake overhangs and you must exit a pod and climb through a strenuous undercling to a lieback. Above, a section of stout 5.9 offwidth guards the anchor.

The anchor is a couple of 40-year-old 1/4" bolts backed up by a sling around a constriction in the crack. You can also leave a nut if you don't like the looks of it. This excellent climb (and several others at Camp 4 wall) deserve some new hardware.

We were able to rap with a 60m rope which barely makes it if you swing over to the right. A 70m rope would make top-roping easier.


Pro to 6", especially 3" and up. Make sure you save a #6 Camalot (or equivalent) to protect the 5.9 offwidth at the end.

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By Russ Walling
Mar 17, 2014

Another fine classic of the genre on the Camp 4 Wall. Exiting the pod thingy is a tough transition into the layback. Great route!

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