REI Community
Camp 4 Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buttocks, The T 
Cheek T 
Chopper T 
Cid's Embrace T 
Doggie Deviations T 
Doggie Diversions T 
Doggie Do T,TR 
Edge of Night T 
Good Ol' Boy T 
Henley Quits T 
Lancelot T 
Rock Bottom T 
Secret Storm T 
Tweedle Dee T 
Young and the Restless T 

Chopper 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mead Hargis and Rick Sylvester (1971)
Page Views: 722
Submitted By: Bryan G on Dec 18, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Chopper has all the trappings of a classic pitch of Yosemite crack climbing. It's clean, steep, burly, and sustained all the way to the anchors. It will test your hand and fist jamming techniques as well as your lieback and offwidth skills.

Walk a short ways past the "Doggie" climbs and you will see this intimidating flake. The crux comes at the obvious section where the flake overhangs and you must exit a pod and climb through a strenuous undercling to a lieback. Above, a section of stout 5.9 offwidth guards the anchor.

The anchor is a couple of 40-year-old 1/4" bolts backed up by a sling around a constriction in the crack. You can also leave a nut if you don't like the looks of it. This excellent climb (and several others at Camp 4 wall) deserve some new hardware.

We were able to rap with a 60m rope which barely makes it if you swing over to the right. A 70m rope would make top-roping easier.

Protection 

Pro to 6", especially 3" and up. Make sure you save a #6 Camalot (or equivalent) to protect the 5.9 offwidth at the end.


Comments on Chopper Add Comment
Show which comments
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Mar 17, 2014

Another fine classic of the genre on the Camp 4 Wall. Exiting the pod thingy is a tough transition into the layback. Great route!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About