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Unsorted Routes:

Chomping at the Bit 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Darryl Roth?
Page Views: 1,275
Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

This route is located in the "Far Side" area, directly across from the Bulge Wall of Menses Prow. It is a bit out of the way for Shelf...nice and secluded. The route starts in a pit that stays nice and cool. The climbing is very straightforward and easy (5.10ish) until you reach a brutal crux boulder problem at a distinct bulge. Some tenuous moves on almost non-existant holds get you over the bulge, then the climbing eases to the chains.

This route is probably easier when it's cold. The crux relies a lot on skin friction on some sharp holds, so the warmer the weather, the softer your skin will be.

I thought the moves were easy off the hang, but linking them proved harder than I first expected due to increasingly sore fingertips with each attempt. This was rated 13b in Van Horn's books, the new Sharp End book calls it 13a, which I think is about right.

Protection 

Bolts.


Comments on Chomping at the Bit Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ken Cangi
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Sep 8, 2007

I tried to do this route on a warm day, and the move felt impossible.
By Ian Spencer-Green
Jul 9, 2009

Yeah, this route is probably safe to call temperature dependent. I climbed it one freezing winter day in about 15 minutes and it didn't feel that bad. We ran up the hill from the Mutant Boulder and the base was covered with snow and we felt like we were in an ice box for sure. Because it was too cold to rest, I tried it several times in a row and sent in about 15 minutes. It's a short toughie that any boulderer will love.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 9, 2009

It should be noted that the name of the route is possibly grammatically incorrect.
By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Jul 9, 2009

Out of my jurisdiction (both geographically and ability-wise)... not going to get involved.
By DJ RYNO
From: chatfield lake ,co
Sep 24, 2009

Great thin fun!!!
Expect on red hanger for anchor. Can TR from Abracadabra if needed.
By Darryl Roth
Dec 1, 2010

This thing repelled me for quite a while, then I found a way to set up into the crux, and launch up. I fired so high that I went three inches above the hold....
I got humbled pretty seriously later on. I heard that Colin Lanz onsighted it and downgraded it to .12b or c.

About grammatically correct... I'm neither politically or grammatically correct when it comes to route names, but my original intention was that it be "Chomping" not "Chompin'".

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