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Choir Boyz 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 400', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Andrew Wilder and Scott McLeod in 2009
Season: morning shade
Page Views: 403
Submitted By: swadeky on Nov 22, 2016  with updates from Scott McLeod

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Chilling at the top of P3

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is Awesome! As of now I do no know the FA, FFA or year it was established so let me know if you have more information. We could not find information online or in any books about this climb.

We climbed this route twice fall of 2016. All anchors are bolted well with good enough tat. This line is beautiful corner and is immediately above you when you hike up to the convent. We linked pitches and did it in 3. 1 and 2 link well, the rest have decent drag.

Pitch 1: 5.12-, Crux off the deck. Super thin corner for 20 feet leads to a short easy chimney. The move getting out of the chimney roof was not freed but felt pretty hard and awkward. finish on off fingers and hands

Pitch 2: 5.10+, Great pitch, tight hands through an overhang leads up the corner. The corner is variable but widens to #5 cam. We found 2 #4s and 1#5 helpful on this pitch. Hand stack and jam up this beautiful pitch!

Pitch 3: 5.11+, The corner thins down up to fingers and leads to a large roof that seams out. My last piece was blue metolious. Pull a cool move around the roof. Then exposed face traverse left to a hand crack and mantle up to base of sport pitch. I placed a very small piece temporarily to protect mantle at end of this pitch. This pitch is wild and exposed!

Pitch 4: Sport pitch, 5.11c, Clip 4 bolts and pull technical and balancy moves. Great movement! lead up and right on easy terrain. This is where it gets tower weird. Ill describe the way we went: Mantle and traverse 30 feet left on flat ground. You will see a corner with 1 more bolts. Climb broken rock up corner to a sloping ledge and calcite .3 cam corner. climb this 10 foot corner to huge ledge, walk right to anchor on ledge.

Pitch 5: Easy climbing, multiple options, some loose rock. Know that the final anchor is directly above you on a ledge. To get there go either left of right. Left was easy looking #5 OW, however we went right. Traverse right 30 feet and up easy calcite crack corner. Mantle up to huge ledge and go left a bit. Climb easy broken rock face style up to another ledge. Head left and go up short splitter crack for 15 more feet. The final anchor is to your left.

This climb was a great tower adventure! Mostly clean, some loose rock on top makes for a full tower experience! Did not look heavily trafficked but was only slightly sandy. Have Fun!

Location 

Top of the trail that the cairns lead to. Obvious left facing corner. Left of Hallelujah chimney and right of Value of Audacity.

The approach information for the convent was great and got us up. It definitely has some crappy choss sections but nothing unexpected when looking at it.

Protection 

A single 70m rope.

Bring many long runners to reduce drag especially towards the top. We brought triple set from .2 to #3 camalots, two #4s and 1 #5 cam.


Photos of Choir Boyz Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: More tension drilling
More tension drilling
Rock Climbing Photo: Beginning of P2
BETA PHOTO: Beginning of P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott McLeod dealing with windy belay
Scott McLeod dealing with windy belay
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew Wilder bolting on Lead - pitch 3
Andrew Wilder bolting on Lead - pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Route from base
Route from base
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo from First Ascent
BETA PHOTO: Topo from First Ascent
Rock Climbing Photo: The first pitch corner and roof.
BETA PHOTO: The first pitch corner and roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: The base
BETA PHOTO: The base

Comments on Choir Boyz Add Comment
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By Scott McLeod
Apr 5, 2017

Glad to see this made it on to Mtn Proj! This route was first done in 2009 by Scott McLeod and Andrew Wilder, though not done free on lead. I referenced Choir Boyz by name for safe decent off the convent, but never posted the topo in the hopes of getting back for the FFA. I assume it has gone free at this point! Great job folks. Photos to follow
By Scott McLeod
Sep 22, 2017

It has been so long since we were on this on forgot one other pertinent detail. We did find pins on the top of pitch 2 and the top of pitch 4. The mystery to us was if they were done going up or down. Without the bolting on P4, it seems unlikely the route was climbed as we could not see another way, especially since there was no evidence of pin scaring the thin cracks, but the hardmen from days of yore were exactly that. Anyways, history unknown as to who/how the pins were placed.

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