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Taking a rest by kneebar
|Some areas require a guide.|
Would be 4 stars if you did not have to grovel in the dirt and the adjacent rock was not right behind your back as you are finishing the problem. Stellar movement none the less makes for a great problem.
Start on the right facing sloper shelf down under the roof with a foot out right. Move to a left facing sloping shelf out right and push yourself into it getting a foot up back to your left. Move into an undercling and push out to a juggy horn with your right hand. The original Choire Boys (Choire Boys Lite) starts from here. Move out left to a sloper on the far side of a block that hangs down and get a right heal on a little tooth to the right of the horn. Come right hand into an undercling on the back side of the block and step on the horn to make a reach out left to a pretty good rounded hold in a crack. Plug some kneebars, right, left or both. Work the rounded crack untill you can reach out right onto the face and a good edge that you can match. From here reach up left to the lip then up right to a flake pocket. Foot work is cruscial going for the lip as the next boulder is right on your back, through a sweatshirt on it or something so that if you blow it you don't tear up your back.
Starts down in the cave just left of Sign of the Cross from a low SDS.
Pads, spotter and a sweatshirt.
By Chris Baker
Jan 3, 2015
The problem was actually first climbed by John (Johno) Rubush.