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Ain't Nothing but a J-Tree Thing T 
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Child's Play T 
Chocolate is Better Than Sex T 
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Chocolate is Better Than Sex 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford, May 1988
Page Views: 1,678
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 25, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Edited photo to show damage to route/beta


This route is shown clearly in the attached Photo. To reach it, approach the Thin Wall's east side and orient according to the photo. This would best be described as starting in a "double crack" in the center of the right half of the wall. Climb the double crack system upward to a merge 1/3 of just to the beginning of a bulge up top, then continue up on the single crack. The jams are good, although the rock is a little poor.The route is traditionally rated (Vogel guide) as 5.9+, but it seems that everything at Thin Wall is overgraded and this felt fair at 5.8.


Cams and Tricams. The crack system here is flaring and rounded and has plenty of shedding crystals. Set pro carefully. This is not 'S' for an experienced leader, but is not a good lead for a beginner.

Photos of Chocolate is Better Than Sex Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Me, at the halfway point, of Chocolate. Super fun ...
Me, at the halfway point, of Chocolate. Super fun ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Norm on Chocolate.
Norm on Chocolate.

Comments on Chocolate is Better Than Sex Add Comment
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By Johnnie Lyman
May 20, 2007

This route has a tricky start for a newer leader. The moves are difficult to read and the whole climb feels a little strange.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Jun 11, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

An "R" rating? Seriously?
By Bowie Pearson
From: Portland, OR
Oct 18, 2009
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

R? What the heck?! Probably the easiest 9 in the park I've ever done. When you think about Pope's Crack or Touch and Go, this is a 5.8- or easier. No pro for the start for maybe 3 moves but this climb is not the least bit run-out.
By Pete Wilk
Apr 17, 2011

I would also agree that this climb is not an 'R' nor a 5.9+. 5.8/5.8- is probably a fair assessment. However, the line I took was primarily to the right of the one in the beta photo.
By John Pan
From: Los Angeles, California
Mar 12, 2014


A friend broke a large chunk of rock off the route from a mock lead fall onto a Cam. See added photo for description/beta.

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