Chocolate Factory Rock Climbing
|Recently Purchased in 2017 by the RRGCC.|
This recently developed cliff is now the largest cliff at the RRG. Hiding in the holler next to the Motherlode, development began in 2007 with more routes being added each year. Currently (January 2017) there are 105 routes with 84 sport lines and 21 trad lines. Most of the sport lines are 5.10 and harder, with two of the hardest lines the Red has to at 5.14c, the Golden Ticket & Pure Imagination. There are even some futuristic projects on this sector equipped by Adam Ondra. To the far right side of the crag, it even has it's own cold weather cave where you get winter time sun for most of the day.
Due to the immense size of this wall, sun or shade can be found at any time of the day. However generally the wall faces south, making it a better cold weather destination.
Just down the road from the Motherlode. Walk toward Sore Heel from the Motherlode parking area and take the first trail on the right (Unmarked as of 9/20/16). This right turn is about five minutes from the Motherlode Parking area.
This massive wall, has about 8 different sub-trails leading to the different cliff sectors. Generally speaking, take the left forks to access the left side of the wall. There is an old logging road you will see shortly after starting hiking that will take you to the leftmost routes. For the far right side (Death by Chocolate, or Swedish Fish) keep making right turns, you will make about 6 of them to get to the wall.
Weather station 1.1 miles from here
58 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',33],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Chocolate Factory
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Chocolate Factory
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Chocolate Factory:
Sugar Rush 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Oompa 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
EGBG 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Loompa 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 60'
Enkidu 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 60'
Icebreaker 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
J Rat's Back 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Swedish Fish 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Gilgamesh 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Malice 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Gobstopper 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Gene Wilder 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Featured Route For Chocolate Factory
Bleak December 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Kentucky
: Red River Gorge
: ... : Chocolate Factory
An awesome, a-typical RRG route following a gorgeous slightly overhanging brown/gold streak. Just enough usable holds, at a choice angle, make for good movement the whole way. Very crimpy.Start by following 2 bolts of a left arching crack until it peters out. Bust the crux move off small, sharp crimps, clip, and make some more long moves on small holds to a flat jug. Crux over. Steller face climbing leads past small plates and pockets to a spicy and sequential shakedown at the anchors.Grade...[more] Browse More Classics in Kentucky
From: Morrison, CO
Oct 23, 2009
Adam Taylor just sent "The Golden Ticket", perhaps the hardest route at the Red at 14c or d. Here are his comments posted at Redriverclimbing.com
"As for the route itself... it starts out nice and slow with maybe a 12c to the 4th bolt, wherein lies a massive jug slot, just enough to get one warmed up. The eight move sequence leading to the next bolt consists of thin moves and ends with a long desperate stab to a two finger pocket (the most frustrating move of the route). As a boulder problem it may be around V9. Three long moves will get you to the next bolt where you can obtain your final real rest in a 1 pad left hand slot and 1.5 pad right hand slot. Moving right leads to a long lunge to a perfect sloping hole which you match and make an even longer lunge/dyno to another 1.5 pad slot. The route to this move would probably be around 14a, but instead of clipping some anchors you abruptly and ruthlessly trend left into a 9 move V10ish boulder problem. With a hand foot match, precise finger placement, a heel hook, and a desperate stab you will end up on two small crimps where you can get a few shakes so long as your forearms aren't pumped more than a tank full of gas. From here you still have 8 or 9 more hard moves before you can grasp the finishing jug, with the final move being the hardest (I found this out by falling past the last bolt six time last spring). The options for the last move are to full out dyno or use a bad sloping crimp to awkwardly cross.
As for the grade, I do not know... It is definitely a step up from both versions of 50, smoke, and lucifer, but not enough to make the next grade at the red in my opinion. I expect to see some quick ascents in the near future, maybe by those who will be more enlightened than I about its rating. "