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Chocolate Factory

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Andy Man Can, The T 
Augustus Gloop S 
Babinski sign  S 
Ball Nuts and Brassies (Aka Broken Ankles) T 
Bleak December S 
Breakin the Law S 
Butane Junky S 
Buttercup S 
Cat's Demise S 
Charlie T 
Chocolate River S 
Climactic Crush S 
Dainty Butterfly, The S 
Death by Chocolate S 
Easy Pickins T 
EGBG S 
Enkidu S 
Fatman S 
Fickelgruber T 
For Your Health S 
Gene Wilder S 
Gilgamesh S 
Glass Elevator, The S 
Gobstopper S 
Golden Ticket S 
Grandpa Joe S 
Grumpalump S 
Hip to the Jive S 
Icebreaker S 
J Rat's Back S 
Juggernaut, The S 
Loompa S 
Malice S 
Mike Teavee S 
Molten S 
Mr. P. S 
Naked S 
Old School Chocolate T 
One Side Makes You Taller S 
Oompa S 
Perfect Puzzle 
Pure Imagination S 
Robotic Thumb S 
Scarlet Scorchdropper T 
Snarf Victory S 
Snozzberries S 
Squirrelworker S 
Strongyloides T 
Sugar Rush S 
Sunday Night Cockfights S 
Swedish Fish S 
Team Tough on Tour S 
Theobroma S 
Throbbing Emotions S 
Through the Looking Glass T 
Toxicodendron S 
Willy Wonka S 
Wobbler S 
Wonkaholic S 

Chocolate Factory Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.64919, -83.71343 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 44,388
Administrators: Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Shirtless Mike on Aug 13, 2008  with updates from MilesC and 1 more
Forecast:
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Boulder Local Jim Mankovich, at 58 years old, atte...

Recently Purchased in 2017 by the RRGCC.

Description 

This recently developed cliff is now the largest cliff at the RRG. Hiding in the holler next to the Motherlode, development began in 2007 with more routes being added each year. Currently (January 2017) there are 105 routes with 84 sport lines and 21 trad lines. Most of the sport lines are 5.10 and harder, with two of the hardest lines the Red has to at 5.14c, the Golden Ticket & Pure Imagination. There are even some futuristic projects on this sector equipped by Adam Ondra. To the far right side of the crag, it even has it's own cold weather cave where you get winter time sun for most of the day.

Due to the immense size of this wall, sun or shade can be found at any time of the day. However generally the wall faces south, making it a better cold weather destination.

Getting There 

Just down the road from the Motherlode. Walk toward Sore Heel from the Motherlode parking area and take the first trail on the right (Unmarked as of 9/20/16). This right turn is about five minutes from the Motherlode Parking area.

This massive wall, has about 8 different sub-trails leading to the different cliff sectors. Generally speaking, take the left forks to access the left side of the wall. There is an old logging road you will see shortly after starting hiking that will take you to the leftmost routes. For the far right side (Death by Chocolate, or Swedish Fish) keep making right turns, you will make about 6 of them to get to the wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.1 miles from here

59 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',33],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',15],['5.11',15],['5.12',13],['5.13',6],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Chocolate Factory

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Chocolate Factory:
Chocolate River   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Grandpa Joe   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Augustus Gloop   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Sugar Rush   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Oompa   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Throbbing Emotions   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Wonkaholic   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 50'   
EGBG   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Robotic Thumb   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   
Loompa   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   
Theobroma   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 75'   
The Glass Elevator   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 60'   
One Side Makes You Taller   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 55'   
Hip to the Jive   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 65'   
Enkidu   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 60'   
Snozzberries   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   
J Rat's Back   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Swedish Fish   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Gilgamesh   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Malice   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Chocolate Factory

Featured Route For Chocolate Factory
Rock Climbing Photo: Pure Imagination

Pure Imagination 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b  Kentucky : Red River Gorge : ... : Chocolate Factory
12c start to a V9 boulder problem finishing in a long dyno to a jug. Next, a series of tough crimps and lockoffs take you a reachy crux followed by tough pockets and more crimps....[more]   Browse More Classics in Kentucky

Comments on Chocolate Factory Add Comment
Show which comments
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Oct 23, 2009
Adam Taylor just sent "The Golden Ticket", perhaps the hardest route at the Red at 14c or d. Here are his comments posted at Redriverclimbing.com

"As for the route itself... it starts out nice and slow with maybe a 12c to the 4th bolt, wherein lies a massive jug slot, just enough to get one warmed up. The eight move sequence leading to the next bolt consists of thin moves and ends with a long desperate stab to a two finger pocket (the most frustrating move of the route). As a boulder problem it may be around V9. Three long moves will get you to the next bolt where you can obtain your final real rest in a 1 pad left hand slot and 1.5 pad right hand slot. Moving right leads to a long lunge to a perfect sloping hole which you match and make an even longer lunge/dyno to another 1.5 pad slot. The route to this move would probably be around 14a, but instead of clipping some anchors you abruptly and ruthlessly trend left into a 9 move V10ish boulder problem. With a hand foot match, precise finger placement, a heel hook, and a desperate stab you will end up on two small crimps where you can get a few shakes so long as your forearms aren't pumped more than a tank full of gas. From here you still have 8 or 9 more hard moves before you can grasp the finishing jug, with the final move being the hardest (I found this out by falling past the last bolt six time last spring). The options for the last move are to full out dyno or use a bad sloping crimp to awkwardly cross.
As for the grade, I do not know... It is definitely a step up from both versions of 50, smoke, and lucifer, but not enough to make the next grade at the red in my opinion. I expect to see some quick ascents in the near future, maybe by those who will be more enlightened than I about its rating. "

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