|Type:||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||FA July 14, 1995 by David Lent, Kevin Crowl|
|Submitted By:||Chris Duca on Aug 22, 2009|
|Comments on Chocoholic||Add Comment|
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By Derek Doucet
Aug 19, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
A number 3 camalot is nice below the roof, but IMO gear is unnecessary above. By the time the 4th bolt is about 2' below your feet, you've passed the crux, and reached very good holds and easy climbing. One might place gear in this vicinity, but it's only another easy move or two to the secure final clip.
A fall on to the 4th bolt from above the crux would, without supplemental gear, be modestly long (an honest 12'-15' perhaps?), but steep and clean provided your belayer keeps the lip of the roof in mind.
A good route, and a total giveaway at the .11b guidebook rating! Flash it soon!