Chockstone Dome Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: The first 5 five feet of the right climb is not sh...
Chockstone Dome sits in the West Side of the park, in the middle of the canyon. The lines here are all easy sport routes, and it is a natural stopping point for a fast warm-up. This is also a great place to bring a newer leader.
Routes aren't long by Pinnacles standards, but you still manage to get 40 to 50 feet out of each.
The most exciting climbing here is all slabs (I hope no one tries to bolt the other side). Though the routes here sit near to the major trail leading to the caves, they are still hidden from view. This is convenient, since the trail isn't very wide, and the Monument's policies require non-invasive climbing.
There are 3 existing bolted routes here, ranging from 5.3 to 5.8. The rock on the routes are pretty solid for this crag, meaning that every fifth hold you grab isn't very nice, instead of every hold.
As long as there's sun anywhere in the canyon, at least some part of the climbing on Chockstone Dome will be in sunlight.
Approach time: 10 - 15 minutes.
From the west parking lot, head on one of the two trails that head over towards the Balconies and Machete Ridge. The Balconies are a visually prominent landmark: if you look north, you can't miss their half mesa appearance.
Continue on the major trail, which will lead you through several fairly narrow passages, as it passes by Hummingbird Spire.
Just after you see the very steep wall on the right (about 150 feet tall) called the Game Show, you will wander down to a part of the massive Machete Ridge;this is the large formation on the right side of the canyon, varying between 400 and 700 feet tall. The trail will lead down into, and stays in, a high-walled canyon at this point. You will pass a sign stating "Machete Climbing Access," and mentions the Destiny (5.8) and Bandits in Bondage (5.11a) routes. This is just before a small bridge.
The trail will lead directly into the Arch, which is a large cave structure containing excellent scary bouldering opportunities up to the 15 to 20 foot tall lip.
Continue about 200 yards past this, and just before the Silver Access gate into the tunnels. Chockstone Dome will be on your left. Climb up the slab just before the gate to your left (3rd class), until you can see sunlight. Maneuvering a little to your left as you climb up the whole 50 feet, you can turn around and see bolts on the Chockstone Dome if you look carefully at the slabby surface. The bolts of the Regular Route (5.3) are hidden a little, and cannot be seen from this access direction, though if you're looking very carefully a little up canyon, you can see them.
Climbing Season For the West Side area.
Weather station 1.5 miles from here
3 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Chockstone Dome
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Chockstone Dome:
Featured Route For Chockstone Dome
Walk the Plank 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b California
: Central Coast
: ... : Chockstone Dome
The leftmost bolted route on Chockstone dome. This route traverses left from the start, causing an excellent sensation of the ground falling out, since you're 10 feet up in climbing, but 30 feet off the ground by the second bolt. A great lead for an inexperienced leader. Climb up over the ledge and about 10 feet back to find the top bolts. Lowering without a 15' sling is probably best accomplished by going down the regular route, which ascends the rightmost depression on the rock....[more] Browse More Classics in California