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The Precipice aka The South Wall
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Chitlin's Corner 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 8,832
Submitted By: Ladd on Oct 1, 2007  with updates from wonderwoman and 3 more

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
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Pulling the second pitch roof.

Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons MORE INFO >>>


A very long corner. This pitch is super classic even thought it has some preamble to it that isn't very fun. Start up the blocky finish, gain the rambling wavy corner and enjoy it to the top. Sometimes the last move to the anchor can be pretty wet.

The first time I was on this climb I was just learning how to trad climb and I placed well over 18 pieces of gear, the next time I was on it I placed 8.

The second pitch is a stiff and thin 5.10a that traverses under a roof.

[ Admin. NOTE: First pitch is a long nice 5.7 pitch that goes to a small ledge and anchor. R Hall, from a suggestion by R Birk]


The big left facing corner left of Conneticut Cracks, Old Town, and London Bridges.


Gig stnd. rack, lots of runners.

Photos of Chitlin's Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux corner on P.2 of Chitlin Corner (5.10). T...
The crux corner on P.2 of Chitlin Corner (5.10). T...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chitlin, P.2. Sara is smiling because: 1) all ten ...
Chitlin, P.2. Sara is smiling because: 1) all ten ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The 2nd pitch.
The 2nd pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: A very long corner.
A very long corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: Travis rappelling down this classic pitch.
Travis rappelling down this classic pitch.

Comments on Chitlin's Corner Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 26, 2016
By wonderwoman
Jan 9, 2009

Why is this showing as a 5.7?
By Evan1984
Jan 17, 2009

probably because the contributor only described the 1st pitch, but he did say the 2nd pitch goes at 5.10
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Jan 25, 2009

FFA.of the full climb.. Doug Madera Paul Ross 1970's
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Sep 1, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

The second pitch is indeed 5.10, and it's wonderful. The 5.10 crux is, well, not where you think it will be. I remember leading this pitch in 1983 with nothing but straight-sided stoppers and hexes---my palms are sweating while I type this. Bring little cams and don't miss this pitch!
By Michael Z.
Aug 16, 2011

Sometimes you climb a feature that's just so nice but only 20 feet long. Chlitlin Corner at around 200 feet may still leave you wanting more, but you can't say its too short!
By Josh Squire
From: East Boston, MA
Aug 29, 2011

Second pitch is 10a, not 10c, and is great. Actually everything on this wall is great.
By Nick K
From: Somerville, MA
Apr 13, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Definitely do the second pitch. The first pitch is a fun cruise, the second pitch is a delight. The rap off is a little awkward going from the P1 anchors to the intermediate anchors out and climber's left. You could avoid this with a double rope rap, but we got off with three single (60m) rope raps.
By Sprax Lines
From: Brookline, MA
May 27, 2015

Rapping with double 60s gets you all the way to the ground in one go, and by choosing where to drop back into the corner, you can avoid crowding other climbers and clogging up the intermediate belays. Plus it's a lot faster.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
May 27, 2015

very fun, long corner climb. sustained. I guess there was a single crux, but it felt sustained most of the way. There were plenty of nice rest stances. The climb eats gear.
By M Bageant
From: Cambridge, MA
Jun 18, 2015

The second pitch is short but good. 10a seems fair, despite how it looks!

I was more nervous on the easier part leading up to the traverse---the gear was a little tricky and the flakes there a little hollow.

I rapped the route with double 60s to the ground, but I would recommend cowboy coils and staying climber's right to avoid dropping back into the corner; besides the obvious rapping-onto-crowded-classics problem, the ropes got snagged multiple times on jugs on Green Mountain Breakdown, which was a PITA to fix.
By Justin Irving
Sep 26, 2016

Only climbed first pitch and it was great. If 5.7 is close to your limit make sure to save some gear for the top as I found the last moves before the anchor to be the crux.

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