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Chiquita 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Andy Knight
Page Views: 146
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Mar 9, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

I added this because it makes a nice single pitch in itself. It is also part of the first pitch of the multipitch route, Banana Roof, 13a. Boulder problem start (crux) to reach a jug and clip the 3rd bolt. From here, all big or positive holds with interesting heel hooks. Fun stuff!

Location 

On the left side of the cave, shares first 2 bolts of Bufugly, 12d.

Protection 

5 bolts, chains.


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By Tyler Taggart
Jul 15, 2015

This route is short. Short short short. Of course it is the first pitch of the Bad Banana Roof, so maybe that is to be expected. But it still feels short. Great quality of rock, fun moves. But not enough climbing. It will be good to start projecting the rest of the pitches now.
Oh, and the bolting for the first moves is super odd. You have two bolts that can be clipped while standing on the ground...then you move pretty far to the left in order to start the climb. It feels a little sketchy at first because if you fall before making the next clip you will come very close to decking, but the moves aren't all that hard into the third bolt so long as you keep your head about you. After clipping the third bolt move to an awesome double-handed undercling, make a big move up and then a bigger move to the right. After that you hit a jug that feels straight out of the gym, clip and then the climb is basically over.

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