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YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Meg Hall, Rand Swanson, Mike Kehoe, Clair Monot, Cindy Austiguy. 90's
Page Views: 687
Submitted By: Ty Morrison-Heath on Jun 5, 2012

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Chips topo.


This line ascends the middle of the formation skirting the roof on the right side.
Pitch 1 (5.4)
Ascend through the blocky chunks of the sill taking the lefter of the two bolt lines. Easy but beware of LARGE death blocks. 2 bolt anchor with chains.
Pitch 2 (5.9+)
Climb up and slightly right from the chains following the right line of bolts where they diverge. Pull through a small roof (crux) and then continue up onto the slab above. Very balancy. Finishes on small ledge with chain anchors.
Pitch 3 (5.8)
Head up and follow the bolt line for another 40 or so feet until you reach another small ledge with a chain anchor.

If you have a tolerance for rope drag and healthy sense of when to sling things you can do the entire climb in one long 60-70 meter pitch. Requires 21 quickdraws and anchoring equipment.

A 70 meter rope can just BARELY make it to the 1st set of anchors from the third. Tie knots in the ends as the fall would surely kill if someone rapped off the ends. From there thread the 1st anchor and aim for the ground.


The middle climb on the wall this ascends just to the left of a large (>20 ft) left facing dihedral.


Bolts with chain anchors. 21 total.

Comments on Chips Add Comment
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By TSpiegelberg
From: Sheridan, Wyoming
Nov 6, 2012

The top two pitches are pretty awesome! Lots of sloping holds on good rock. If you dont mind the choss at the bottom go send it!
By Jeffrey Dunn
Aug 4, 2014

Finding the approach trail is tricky: a little gully about 100 yards past the campsite that reaches a faint trail that traverses up and right towards the cliff. I found the guidebook slightly misleading in that it showed the first pitch forking into left and right variations to reach the two different anchors, when it would be better described as going straight up or very hard right (I wasn't able to see the bolts from the ledge below).

There is potential for a nasty fall onto the belayer/belay ledge at the start of the first real pitch, but the climbing there is easier.
By Matt Wenger
From: Bozeman
Apr 2, 2017

What's the condition of the fixed gear on this route? 90's was some time ago now.
By Fink Fink
From: Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
Jun 1, 2017

Climbed last year, all the fixed gear seemed legit (nothing obviously askew). Fun outing; doubtful you'll run into another party. Approach and approach pitch are annoying, but the last two pitches have great position and decent movement.

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