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Chips Wall

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Chips Wall Rock Climbing 

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Location: 40.6337, -111.72 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,627
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ryan Brough on Sep 23, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Traverse when you see this ramp. This is the way ...


Chips Wall is an eastern continuation of the Upper S-Curve cliff band and is below the Above and Beyond Wall. It is south-facing and sunny, even in the winter. The approach is not well marked, and isn't much fun, so crowds are no problem. There are terrific views of the Millstone from this area.
There is some choss on lower sections of the wall, but that isn't the part of the wall that you came to climb. There are terrific diagonalling cracks that are nearly horizontal in places on the face above the large roof band that splits the wall. There are some water streaks (and water) on the wall, which adds to the adventure.

Getting There 

Park in the first pullout on the north side of the road after passing the S-Curve. There is a bicycle sign and a pine tree with the top chopped off at the pullout. Just to the West of the sign and cut pine tree, there is a small talus slope. Climb the faint trail on the left for about 150 feet. Traverse through the brush towards the first ramp. From the top of the ramp, you can see the wall, but one last brushy traverse remains. The physically fit can make it to the base of the crag in 15 minutes if they're not afraid of getting scratched while bushwacking.

Climbing Season

For the Big Cottonwood Canyon area.

Weather station 3.6 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Chips Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: New Mexican Crack on the right (bottom part of rou...

New Mexican Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Chips Wall
Climb the easy right-facing dihedral to some brushy ledges. The rock is a little bit chossy here, but the climbing is easy. Climb onto the face to the left and up to the cracks. Traverse to the left, following the cracks for about 50 feet. Be sure to place ample protection to reduce the risk of pendulum falls for both the leader and second. There are some reachy moves on some thin holds. Route finding is a significant crux as is placing pro. The New Mexican Crack sports some of the most f...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Chips Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the pullout for Chips Wall and Above and B...
BETA PHOTO: This is the pullout for Chips Wall and Above and B...
Rock Climbing Photo: The "topless" tree that marks the trail ...
BETA PHOTO: The "topless" tree that marks the trail ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chips Wall
BETA PHOTO: Chips Wall

Comments on Chips Wall Add Comment
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By Jhernand
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 18, 2010
don’t waste your time on this wall... loose rock everywhere, mossy sections more then not, and climbing is less then stellar. with more traffic the trail in and out will get better, and same goes for the rock... but right now it should be at the end of your to do list.
By zoso
May 18, 2010
I disagree. I thought both routes were really fun and clean. I lead the 5.9 and TRed the 10a though, so FWIW.
By Jhernand
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 9, 2010
well i pulled off many beach ball sized bolders so either it was loose or i am ripped out of my mind... that and much of the crack had dirt and moss in them... so that all said, a short ok route, and a less then great walk in... why?

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