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Chinese Water Torture 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ted Hammond, Bradley White, mid 1980's
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,800
Submitted By: bradley white on Jul 21, 2009

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This was the only piece of gear between the belay ...


From the top of pitch 2 of the Original Orange Crush move directly up past 2 pins in a horizontal crack over a bulge (hard 5-10) into a dirty corner slot chimney like depression. Follow this depression until there is an exit right. This direct finish with a intense scrubbing would be a nice addition to this section. I'm sure the pins are rotted out by now. The crack they are in continuously gets and remains wet.
Ted led it and rebuked me for thinking it was a good climb because it was so dirty. I didn't lead it after his epic ascent. It has gone into the void of obscurity, although it was the first of it's kind to this area to reveal what free climbing potential was to become some of the renown climbs of Rattlesnake. It blindsided me to pursuing these other first ascents.

UPDATE - Now fully bolted with glue-ins and it is considerably cleaner. From the Tropicana ledge, the former second pitch of Orange Crush is now combined with this as one pitch. Exciting airy terrain with lots of kneebars! Make sure to take note of the sling recommendations below to avoid potential rope drag.


Originally climbed as a direct finish pitch after doing the first two pitches of Original Orange Crush, now that it is all bolted, the last two pitches are climbed together as one.. Climb the bolted version of Orange Crush or an alternate first pitch to gain the Tropicana ledge. Belay at the far right (Tropicana) anchors (be aware of sharing the anchor). From those anchors, traverse right around the nose, clipping the Fresh Squeezed anchor, across to a left facing corner and continue straight up aiming for the steep slot at the top.


Counting the Fresh Squeezed anchors as the first bolt, 9 glue-in bolts to anchor. Use shoulder length slings on the 2nd, 3rd and 4th bolts, long draws on the rest. Don't clip the pins. They are just left for historical purpose. Proper sling and long draw usage will eliminate a lot of rope drag and wear and tear. See Eric's comment about rope length below.

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Rock Climbing Photo: The start of Chinese Water Torture, looking from t...
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 15, 2017
By M Sprague
From: New England
May 12, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This was partially retroed. The top has new glue-ins and an anchor. Watch for loose rock and avoid if people are below as it still needs more cleaning. It shouldn't be too bad for the adventurous, better when the retro job is finished a couple years from now.

Make sure you dont disturb or clean the area around the fragrent ferns
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 28, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

I wish i had read this earlier.. I thought i had seen bolts on it so i started up with just draws and was like... hmmmm.... i guess not... its good to know that the upper part is safe... ill bring gear next time and get after it :)
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
May 11, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

UPDATE: Climbed it this evening! the chimney at the top is kneebar city :)
I placed a #4 stopper at the beginning, there were many pins (5 or 6 that i saw) i clipped 3 of them and skipped a few cause they were rotten. I was happy to clip the 3 new bolts toward the top.

The climbing was pretty good most of the way and spectacular for the last 20 feet... but loose rock, rotten pitons and even a small pricker bush will keep most from discovering it.
By bradley white
From: Bend
May 16, 2014

Has become what I thought it should be, a nearly great route. This was solo top rope cleaned, it was way dirtier and I free climbed it after the two pins were placed in the usually seeping wet crack. now there are five or six pins and these other pins are mysterious? I should have led it (oops) because I thought it was clean and not a mortality on the line climb because after the two pins there are natural placements for gear I knew were there. Ted didn't stop for anything and had no gear after the two pins all the way to the trees. Mortality on the line climbs are what I do the most. Its such a dopamine rush.
By Ladd
Nov 3, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Climbed this with Jay this morning. Scary climbing on lead, especially the holds that broke off. A mix of foot holds and one large hand broke off, but shouldn't change the grade.

I'm sure this thing would be half fun on TR, but I won't be rope-gunning this for anyone.

Also, without the first piece (see picture) this climb is definitely an R/X route. Falling before the first bolt due to wet rock or a broken hold would result in significant injury.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Nov 11, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Update: The bolts are all in. Including the Fresh Squeezed anchors as bolt 1, there are now 9 bolts plus anchors. Be sure to use shoulder length slings on the 2nd through 4th bolt and long draws on the rest. The fourth bolt is a bit off to the left, but I needed to put it there for good rock and to direct a fall away from the rock. This might be a good route for fixed cable draws.

I did a lot of loose rock removal and brushing, but it could still use another day or two of work. There are a couple loose pieces that I couldn't get off with my extra large screwdriver size bar, but I don't think they will imminently come off if you climb sensibly. They should get attention soon though, since it is such a popular area below. If you are in a panic and reaching for dirty area, don't. There are good cleaned holds that get you were you want to go. Stick to the cleaned areas and particularly avoid disturbing the area around the patch of fragrant ferns, please, and you should be fine. I pulled the couple pins that I think I placed as directionals when trundling years ago, but left the rest for historical purpose for now.

The route is cool and now much more climbable. (I climbed it 4 or 5 times top to bottom clean on self belay TR while working on it) Bradley is right. It has got that 'out there' climbing, a harbinger of the wild routes like Restless Native and Beat Junkie.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Nov 11, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I am not sure if your belayer on the Tropicana ledge could lower you off through the top anchors all the way to the ground with a 60 or 70 m rope. If somebody figures that out, let us know. Until then, the leader should tram back down to the ledge.
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Nov 11, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I won't be going back to Rumney this season but I volunteer to give it a good brushing in the spring. Thanks a lot Mark!!!
By S. Neoh
Apr 16, 2016

Just curious, anyone climbed this route recently? Is it dry (enough)?
Bring along a brush? Thanks again Mark.
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
May 1, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Climbed this one today. Completely dry. Very worth doing.
I first climbed Tropicana seconding. Went right to clip the Fresh Squeezed anchor, kept going right to clip the first sling. Went back unclipping the Tropicana anchor. Went back in the climb until I clipped the second sling then back to unclip the Fresh Squeezed anchor. At that point, my belayer was straight below Fresh Squeezed and belayed me from the ground. With a 70m rope, you easily get to the ground. A 60m rope is barely touching the ground at the foot of the route but lowering the climber will bring him a bit lower in the trail, he would end up a few meters off the ground. Don't risk it with a 60m from the top.
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Sep 13, 2017

Amazing route! Thanks for retroing it! Fun movement and wild exposure.

We lowered to the ground with a 70m no problem.
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Sep 15, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is indeed an interesting climb. Too bad this route was not updated in the new guidebook. Spread the word that this is now a full sport route...

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