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Chinese New Year 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Uli and Tanja Weidner
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 24
Submitted By: Justin Loyka on Feb 1, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

A good change of pace from the steep and relentlessly pumpy single pitch routes that abound here. Fantastic views from the summit, and for the whole climb really. A bit sharp all over as of now (has only seen 2 ascents).

1st pitch: 5.8 easy climbing, go to the second set of anchors (the first set is only there for rapping)
2nd pitch: 5.9 edges, flakes and pockets, many seem a bit brittle
3rd pitch: 5.10c High-quality climbing up the orange streaks in the wall, steeper than the rest of the route.
4th pitch: 5.8 easy but dicey climbing up precariously perched blocks to the summit

Descent: 4 or 5 simple raps, no backclipping necessary, pray the rope doesn't catch one of the myriad edges

Protection 

bolts and occasionally slings


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