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Chinese Eyes T 
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Chinese Eyes 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Charlie Fowler & Dan Grandusky - November, 1986
Page Views: 3,186
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 6, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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View of Arches from atop the route.

  • Raptor Closures 2017: Check status and details at: -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Maybe it was the rain, maybe it was just the entrada sandstone, but I thought this climb was really unappealing. However, I will still give it a star because the line is indeed attractive and Stewart Green's (Falcon Publishing) "Rock Climbing Utah" guide calls it "excellent."

    Head to the obvious blocks on the Great Wall (as my partner pointed out, they look like a stop-action photo of a large block slowing toppling over to the left), and to the crack in the dihedral to a three bolt anchor.


    Two sets of cams from .5 to 3.5 camalots. A #5 camalot is very nice to have.

    Photos of Chinese Eyes Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: eyes
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Holliday happy to be through the final wide s...
    Dave Holliday happy to be through the final wide s...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Chinese Eyes
    Chinese Eyes
    Rock Climbing Photo: eyes
    Rock Climbing Photo: Stretch.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sandy fun
    Sandy fun

    Comments on Chinese Eyes Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Stan Pitcher
    From: SLC, UT
    Oct 21, 2002

    I liked this route. It is a bit sandy but is really good jamming with all sizes represented. I think I used two each 1-3 camalots and a few smaller cams at the bottom. The 5 is nice to have but probably not necessary. You can get a 0 TCU in the wide section but probably would'nt want to fall very hard on it.
    By Andy Laakmann
    Site Landlord
    From: Bend, OR
    Feb 1, 2006
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Yes, this route is a little sandy, but it is still a great climb in a spectacular location. The view across the desert to the La Sals is awesome. It also is rarely crowded and very sunny - perfect for a cold weekend in the desert. Cams go from BD #0.5 to BD #3.5. A single offwidth move to the chains can be protected by a big cam, but odds are the sand crystals wouldn't hold anyways... Don't let the offwidth move keep you off this climb, it is ONE move to the chains. Recommended.
    By Sam Lightner, Jr.
    From: Lander, WY
    Mar 12, 2007

    The ATF has changed the anchor on this route to brown chain and two half-inch bolts.
    The OW move at the top is about as easy as an Entrada OW move can be and not be face climbing.
    By toddgordon Gordon
    From: Joshua Tree, California
    Apr 25, 2007

    I ascended this climb in March of 1988 with Cyndie Bransford. We were very happy to have a short free climb to tick off in a very wonderful setting.....yeah, it aint' granite. Combine this climb with nearby Ring Arch, and you will have a fantastic day to remember.
    By Allen Hill
    From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
    May 31, 2007

    I did this last week and really enjoyed it. It hardly felt like an Arches route. Rather solid and secure for the Arches.
    By BirminghamBen
    From: Birmingham, AL
    Oct 19, 2008

    Dirty, gritty, and sandy...a #5 is not it out to the cannot fall out of that chimney unless you try. Good first Arches route.
    By Mark P Thomas
    From: Draper
    Nov 22, 2012
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Compared to other Arches routes, this is medium on the sandy scale. Not Creek quality, but not scary either with appropriate technique and protection behavior.

    The wide section has plenty of cheater holds and is not hard at all (5.6-5.7). However, if you want to squeeze inside to be more secure finishing (no pro wider than a #3 Camalot needed), I recommend high tops or covering your ankles. I do a lot of OW and it was pretty unavoidable cutting up my right ankle after leading and doing a TR lap.
    By M HawkMan
    Feb 19, 2014

    Approach BETA*****

    To approach these climbs park near the bridge that crosses Courthouse Wash.

    Hike up Courthouse Wash until you reach the prominent buttress which hosts climbs like "Chinese Eyes". Cut right at/near the base of the wall and the climbs are obvious.

    Do NOT tromp through the "field" of crypto from one of the pullouts after crossing Courthouse Wash. There is no established trail and the washes are sparse and scattered. Much easier to simply hike up CW.

    By John Hovell
    From: San Francisco, California
    Apr 27, 2014

    This might sound weird but is this crack getting thinner? I climbed it on Wednesday initially apprehensive I didn't have enough big gear as the Supertopo guide describes the crux as wide and demanding (I have small hands) and I had accidentally left my #3 Camalots at camp. Short story is it was a comfortable lead using nothing bigger than #2 Camalots (I placed 3)... Maybe I could have found a place for a #3 but I don't think a #4 camalot would fit anywhere on the route so I would not bring anything bigger than maybe a single #3. There is a bomber #2 placement right below the ow so I would recommend not bothering with the big gear on this route. I also second the approach beta. The field in front of the climb is a minefield of crypto with no established trail. I don't think there is an established trail to courthouse wash either but at least that distance is shorter.
    By Josh Cameron
    From: California in my Mind
    Feb 6, 2015
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Climbed this route today and found the initial start and the offwidth sandy and the holds crumbly. However, the main corner system seemed solid to me. But as Todd says, don't take this climb for granite! :D

    For what it's worth, I sewed this climb up and I don't have a desert rack. In C4's I used a .4, .5, an overcammed .75, 1, 2, and a tricky to place #3 right before the offwidth. Also, in Metolius Power Cams I used a 7, and an overcammed 8.

    A beautiful route, in a beautiful area, with a beautiful vista, on a beautiful day.

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