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China Crisis 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Eric and Kyle Horst 1987
Page Views: 1,043
Submitted By: matt matera on Aug 31, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Fun OW section.

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


40 feet off-width crack to the right of Hubba Bubba.


4 bolts. Can also use a number 4 C4 black dimaond camalot if you want extra protection.

Photos of China Crisis Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: China Crisis, 5.11a sport.
China Crisis, 5.11a sport.

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By Ed Wade
From: Hermann, MO
Apr 18, 2015

Why is there bolts on this climb? I remember there being a pin about halfway up and not having any trouble with cam placements. What's going on here. Cracks should not have bolts. If you can't climb offwidths then climb something else.
By BrianWS
Apr 19, 2015

Many routes at Bubba City are retrobolted gear lines, per the original FA's decision. Accessibility and convenience were most likely the rationale.

What was done was done years ago and is certainly not the norm at the rest of the gorge. Since it isn't part of a new trend in the area and was done so long ago, it isn't really worth making a fuss over in my opinion.
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
May 12, 2015

While I agree with you Ed, this isn't the only place that this has occurred. I don't know how long the bolts have been there, or if the FA put them there. Other routes that are bolted cracks and can probably be protected with gear are Disturbance at Beauty, Beetle Byway at Meadow, and the list goes on. There are also routes that go the other way. Gear-protected but thin, requiring tiny gear and definitely R rated- the addition of bolts would be justified (with regard to safety), yet they remain boltless. Colorblind at Endless comes to mind. And still others that use a mixture. I think this one seems so egregious because it's sort of in your face with the solid crack all the way up, and because you remember it without bolts.
By Clinton Miller
Nov 29, 2015

Didn't know about this one until I walked past it. Super fun. Look for the no hands knee-lock rest!

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