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China Beach 

YDS: 5.14b French: 8c Ewbanks: 33 UIAA: X+ ZA: 33 British: E9 7b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.14b French: 8c Ewbanks: 33 UIAA: X+ ZA: 33 British: E9 7b [details]
FA: Dave Graham 1999
Page Views: 14,067
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Feb 6, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Strong Dan Kochis whips from the crux of China Bea...


I have not sent this route; however, I have spent a disproportionate amount of time falling off this route...

China Beach is the ultimate sport climb and is the standard against which all other sport climbs should be judged. It climbs up the center of one of the steepest walls in Rumney and it offers no rests after the first bolt. It contains hard moves, but not so hard that it could be considered a "boulderer's route," like so many other hard routes at Rumney. It requires a top level of both power and endurance for the send. It's also solid in its grade, having held it's rating for around ten years now, unlike Livin' Astro on its right, which has heard some down-grading mumbles. No one is in line to downgrade the Beach, that's for sure.

China Beach begins with a few moves to get established before the hanging corner. This corner overhangs at about 45 degrees and forces the climber into desperate, insecure layback moves, similar to moves you might find on a trad route. You are more likely to fall due to a foot skating than from strength failure. Yet, it's still taxing. This sections ends at a horizontal about two-thirds of the way up. Dan Nguyen initially redpointed this section at about 13b or c.

The horizontal doesn't offer much in the way of rest, and the next section is the crux which consists of long moves to crimps and difficult foot moves. To call this crux V8 is to discount the previous climbing up the corner. Off the dog, it feels V8ish, but on redpoint it feels unratable. Pumpy, big moves follow up the headwall and culminate in a strenuous iron-cross move left to a pretty big hold. Matching the hold is the redpoint crux, and many a valiant attempt has ended here.

China Beach has captivated climbers for many years and it is common to see people climbing on it just for the fun of it. Big falls are expected. A redpoint to the break is a worthy objective as well. Any time spent climbing on the Beach is time spent communing with a perfect, pure, hard, inspiring medium.


8 Bolts. Fixed draws. No kneepad required.

Photos of China Beach Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The beautiful line.
The beautiful line.
Rock Climbing Photo: Took me a minute to figure out how to manage the c...
Took me a minute to figure out how to manage the c...
Rock Climbing Photo: Feeling around for the best rest stance. I thought...
Feeling around for the best rest stance. I thought...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay Knower reaching the break from the ground. Pro...
Jay Knower reaching the break from the ground. Pro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay Knower resting up a little before the unending...
Jay Knower resting up a little before the unending...

Comments on China Beach Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 26, 2016
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Feb 6, 2008

Check out the video of Brian Kim's send of China Beach.
By Adam Stackhouse
Mar 13, 2009

Great video.
By Rajiv Ayyangar
From: Portland, ME
Oct 8, 2012

The FA-ist, Mr. Graham himself. Has a few sections omitted from the Dosage II Rumney segment. (China Beach starts at 2:00):

By Aaron nietzel
May 21, 2014

AWESOME route description!!
By Josh C Levin
Aug 24, 2015

By Graham O.
Aug 26, 2016

Nice videos, to all of you! Now, there is a line of bolts up a blank face left and around the corner from Jaws. Anybody know anything about this?
By M Sprague
From: New England
Aug 26, 2016

The line just left of Jaws is Bill Clinton, an open project. I don't know if all the moves have ever been freed through the bulge (super burly), but the rest goes.
By Joe M.
Aug 26, 2016

I thought I saw something on FB or instagram from Mike Foley saying that he had finally done all the moves. Of course, he has now moved out west, so it may still be a project for a while...
By Joe M.
Aug 26, 2016

From 18 weeks ago:

"fikemoley Had our first sport climbing day of the season! I managed to complete all of the moves on the #billclinton project. This thing is definitely a step up in difficulty from its neighbors...
By M Sprague
From: New England
Aug 26, 2016

Great news! I always wondered if that section would really go.
By Graham O.
Aug 26, 2016

A step up in difficulty from it's neighbors? Wow. We could have a 5.15b on our hands...

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