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Last Temptation Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Charlie's Angel S,TR 
Chimps in Negligee T,S,TR 
Death & Taxes TR 
Go I Know Not To Wither T,S 
Live Monkey Brain S,TR 
Lobotomy S,TR 
Sunset Arete S 

Chimps in Negligee 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 944
Submitted By: Daniel Trugman on Apr 23, 2010

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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A fun moderate on nice rock. While the moves are probably on the easy side of 5.9 (at least if you are taller), this route might be a bit unnerving for a leader at their limit due to the high first bolt.

Climb unprotected 5.6 slab for ten feet to a ledge. Ten more feet of easier slabbing gets you to the first bolt. Find the good holds and pull yourself over the well-protected roof (crux?). More easy slabbing leads to harder moves at two more roofs, with a bolt protecting each.


Location 

Starts is fifty feet left of "Go I Know Not Whither" and ten feet left of "Charlie's Angel", a climb made obvious due to its large, bolt-protected roof.

To find "Chimps", look for a bolt about 20-25 feet off the ground, just to the right of a low angle, slabby ramp. This is the first bolt of "Chimps".

Protection 

3 bolts to a two bolt anchor

Morris's excellent guidebook advises you to bring cams (.75-2 in), but I didn't really see much opportunity to place them. That said, you might as well bring them if you have them.

Walk around to the top of the cliff (trail on the left side of the crag) to clean your anchor draws.


Comments on Chimps in Negligee Add Comment
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By Brian Snider
From: NorCal
Jan 10, 2011

Good description, all three tough spots are well protected. The cams are for down low before the first bolt on the low angle slab section, but they are not really needed as your already close to the first bolt and on easy ground.
By MikeWilkinson
From: Lexington, KY
Aug 24, 2015

Just above the crux bulge, 15-20 feet to climbers right, lots of yellow jackets were seen nesting around sunset. They didn't bother me while sticking to the climb, but if you were to move about 10-15 feet to the right on a natural ledge, you'd regret it.
By Bruce Morris
From: Belmont, CA
Sep 3, 2015

There's a big yellow jacket nest up and right from "Chimps". Always has been there with swarms coming out and getting back in. Avoid!