Chimps in Negligee
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A fun moderate on nice rock. While the moves are probably on the easy side of 5.9 (at least if you are taller), this route might be a bit unnerving for a leader at their limit due to the high first bolt.
Climb unprotected 5.6 slab for ten feet to a ledge. Ten more feet of easier slabbing gets you to the first bolt. Find the good holds and pull yourself over the well-protected roof (crux?). More easy slabbing leads to harder moves at two more roofs, with a bolt protecting each.
Starts is fifty feet left of "Go I Know Not Whither" and ten feet left of "Charlie's Angel", a climb made obvious due to its large, bolt-protected roof.
To find "Chimps", look for a bolt about 20-25 feet off the ground, just to the right of a low angle, slabby ramp. This is the first bolt of "Chimps".
3 bolts to a two bolt anchor
Morris's excellent guidebook advises you to bring cams (.75-2 in), but I didn't really see much opportunity to place them. That said, you might as well bring them if you have them.
Walk around to the top of the cliff (trail on the left side of the crag) to clean your anchor draws.
By Brian Snider
Jan 10, 2011
Good description, all three tough spots are well protected. The cams are for down low before the first bolt on the low angle slab section, but they are not really needed as your already close to the first bolt and on easy ground.
From: Lexington, KY
Aug 24, 2015
Just above the crux bulge, 15-20 feet to climbers right, lots of yellow jackets were seen nesting around sunset. They didn't bother me while sticking to the climb, but if you were to move about 10-15 feet to the right on a natural ledge, you'd regret it.
By Bruce Morris
From: Belmont, CA
Sep 3, 2015
There's a big yellow jacket nest up and right from "Chimps". Always has been there with swarms coming out and getting back in. Avoid!