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YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  TR, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 844
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Nov 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Towards the top of the Chimney


Up and over the chockstone into the middle, now just start chimneying - it's fun and a little scary if soloing.

Descend down the short face on the West side.


The obvious chimney.


Toprope or solo.

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By Tristan Burnham
From: La Crescenta, CA
Apr 14, 2011

You can go the Chimney facing either way and also once you are a few feet up you can use just the face holds too. I'm pretty sure there's no bolts on the top so you have to boulder it, not really a free solo.
By dnaiscool
Apr 27, 2015

This route is of significant historical importance. Throughout the time climbers have been crawling all over Stoney Point, this route served as THE route to learn the chimney technique.

The RCS (Rock Climbing Section of the Sierra Club...who came here all the time for many decades before becoming extinct in the late 70's) would drop a TR on this route at just about every outing, and newbie climbers would get their first wack at chimney-style movement.

I did my first chimney here when I was just an eight year old kid in 1963, and I imagine thousands of others did also...only most of them were probably a lot older.
By David Wolfe
Feb 19, 2016

Sorry about the lack of bolts.
I pulled one out about 35 years ago trying to open a jammed locking beaner, the young lady sitting behind me saved my butt from going off that long drop on the east side when the bolt popped out.

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