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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,550
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 24, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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Denise in the Chimney. A fairly easy climb that re...

Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock MORE INFO >>>


Climb the large chimney in the middle of the rock. Nudge, squirm, jam, and any other moves can and will be used to get you up this chimney. All the moves are rests, so running out of gas is not an issue.

Crux is getting through the bulge towards the top of the route.

There's also an interesting cave in the middle of the route that heads beck a ways into the rock.


huge friends (up to 5") for a trad lead. A convenient top anchor can be set up using the tree above the route, but you should bring a 20' sling to be sure.

Photos of Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: chimney on the lower tier
BETA PHOTO: chimney on the lower tier

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By Steve R.
From: Oakland, CA
Nov 17, 2008

Happy fresh bolts at the top of this. Managed to lead this without super huge gear. Stuck in things like #2 and #3 cams, #11 Hex (heck yeah!), one or two TCU placements possible and a sling around the tree after the crux.
By KyleAnderson
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 17, 2011

watch out for the crazy birds in the cave!
By Linnea Williams
Feb 2, 2015

For how covered in bird poop this is, I found it quite aesthetic (for the old school trad lovers out there). A nice random way to spend your time when every other route is taken. :) the pigeons will "whoooo" at you, but they aren't dangerous at all.
By Ashley Rose 1
May 24, 2016

Smelly and awkward. Avoid.
By Bruno Beltran
From: Stanford, CA
May 29, 2017

Stinky as reported, but a good, gentle introduction to chimney'ing for your friends who you plan on taking to the valley this weekend that have never tried it before. A top rope is easy to set up from bolts that you can rap down to by slinging a tree at the top of the cliff.

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