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Lower Gibraltar
Routes Sorted
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Chimney Sweep T 
Conundrum T,TR 
Left of Rapture S 
Lieback Annie T,TR 
Rapture, The S,TR 
Warrior Crack T 

Chimney Sweep 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: 1978 - Curt Dixon, Warren Edgebert, Tom Adam
New Route: Yes
Season: year-round
Page Views: 133
Submitted By: Tom Adam on Apr 12, 2016

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Description 

This route was first done so long ago, and only after MUCH cleaning of debris from the chimney portion, so I don't know if it's still climbed/climbable. The route lies on the main wall immediately around the corner to the right of Lieback Annie. A few knobby face moves lead up and right to a right-leaning crack that goes from hands to fists to off-width, and then opens to a chimney for the last half of the the route.

Location 

Immediately around the corner to the right of Lieback Annie. We spent the better part of a weekend hanging off ropes cleaning out rockfall debris and dead brush that filled the the chimney, and underneath all that mess found a pretty fun little route.

Protection 

Not sure what pro you'd use these days, (we did this in pre-cam days) but gear from 1" to 4" should get you to the chimney. The chimney is pretty run out, as I recall, but not too hard.


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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 12, 2016

Tom,thank you for the contributions to Mountain Project--as if pioneering the routes was't enough!

This route was not very climbable for years and years, on account of a healthy Bay Tree which grew out of the crack about 1/2 way up. The Jesusita Fire took care of the tree and now the route is climbable again. It's a very worthy climb!
By mbuntaine
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 13, 2016

Cool route. We did this about nine months ago on lead, which makes for an interesting upper section. We cut the bay tree at that time and removed a bunch of dirt, but I'm sure it has grown back since. We took the crack feature trending up and right into the base of the chimney.

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