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Chimney Route T 

Chimney Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John Burcham, Albert Newman
Page Views: 179
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Mar 1, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: The route.


The chimney cleaving the west face is hard to miss. This can be done in two pitches, with a set of chains at about 80-90', but easily links into one pitch. Cool, varied chimney climbing with a couple trickier spots. There are cracks throughout some of the chimney, and 6 bolts, making this pretty well-protected for a chimney. The top anchors are on a blocky ledge about 10' left of the actual top of the chimney. A short pitch of blocky, ledgy mid-5th class leads to the summit (can be linked with the chimney for a full 70m lead, but rope drag can get bad).


On the west face. Rap from a small tree on the summit to chains (bring extra cord to back up what we left). Two raps from chain anchors to ground.


(1X) .4-#3, 6 bolts, chain anchors, one 60m rope. More or less gear can be brought, depending on your comfort level with moderate chimneys.

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By Bill Lundeen
From: Lee Vining, CA
Oct 17, 2016

Great route! I thought it even better than its neighbor, the Original Route on Ten Minute Spire. Only 2 bolts on first pitch, not 3 as mentioned on MP and in Bloom/Wolfe guide. No matter; well protected anyway (1st pitch).

2nd pitch is slightly runout, though not hard, to first bolt (no pro before it with recommended rack. A #6 Camelot would protect it nicely if wanted). No tree on summit anymore to rap off; we downclimbed the 15 ft with a belay back to the rap anchor (which is on the opposite side of the chimney from where it is shown on the photo).

Great route on good rock

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