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Chimney Route 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
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Submitted By: Kirk Miller on Feb 2, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: The route climbs the wide splitter on the right si...

Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>


For an ascent of this route, bring the big gear. and be ready to use your route finding and offwidth skills.


Once you've made the hike in, locate the obvious namesake chimney on the North face, wander up, and engage the wideness.


Standard rack, singles to #6 Camalot (two #6s come in handy for sure) and #3 & 4 Big Bros. There are a few old fixed pins high on the route.

The old summit anchors were kinda sketchy....

Three scary pins were pulled (too easily!) and replaced with a new anchor in 2015. The summit now sports a stainless anchor with chain and rings (courtesy of ASCA) strategically placed where the Chimney Route tops out; 40 meter rap.

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By Kirk Miller
From: Golden, CO
Feb 2, 2015

When I climbed this with Tyson Ferryman, summer of 2014, the summit anchors consisted of three sketchy pins and a tied off block. The slings were sun bleached, degraded and falling apart, as well as crusted over with lichen. We guessed no one had been up there for a long while.

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