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Golden Nugget Spire (aka Hang Nail)
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Chimney Route T 

Chimney Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,200
Submitted By: Ben Kiessel on Jan 15, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Matt rappelling.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start on the north side of the chimney and walk inside. Climb up the chimney that is protected by a crack. Mantel onto a ledge or the shoulder of the spire. Clip a drilled pin which is a great foot hold, and climb to the summit.

Protection 

Small Standard Rack, One 60 meter rope to rappel.


Photos of Chimney Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul Bucher high on the lead before exiting the ch...
Paul Bucher high on the lead before exiting the ch...
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt starting up the chimney.
Matt starting up the chimney.

Comments on Chimney Route Add Comment
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By Matt Pickren
Feb 13, 2008

Although certainly an "obscure" tower which is surely never going to be a trade route (its also only 70ish feet tall) I though this was rather fun. Very similar to Space Tower in Kane Creek with great stemming and good protection.

Or.... Maybe I've been climbing with Ben and Brad too long...
By jakobi
From: moab, utah
Sep 26, 2009

The top section of this climb from the shoulder to the summit goes free at 5.9 though the rock is not the greatest quality. Fun, quick little tower outing.
By Mike Estenson
Sep 25, 2011

Definitely goes free at 5.9. It took plenty of pro, but the upper pin being placed a little higher to prevent a lead fall onto the ledge would have been a good idea. Paul lead it free and did a sweet job. Great fun.
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Sep 26, 2011

super fun and easy (as desert towers go). the 5.9 is on the easier side of that and only a couple of moves. the potential for the ledge fall is a concern. we had a rack of camalots to a 4, with extra 1,2,3. i placed the 4 but it's not mandatory. well protectable.
By Crag Turkey
From: Holladay, UT
May 20, 2015

Great shortie, pretty good if you want to practice chimney climbing with superb protection the whole way. It was my ladies first tower and she loved it. As for the pin at the top.... I dont think its position is an issue, as the climbing is extremely easy above it. However, I think it could use a upgrade to a bolt, the rock quality is horrible up there. It would be nice to have a little bit more to catch falls when the rock breaks, but that's up to the FA. I do like the pin, but others may be scared by it. Light single rack to a camalot #3 was plenty.
By Patrick Betts
Apr 8, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great tower. The drilled angle is the best piece of fixed pro on the tower. no need to worry there. The summit had 3 bolts, 1 came out by hand today. One bolt is good; the other is in between good and mediocre but this is to be expected in crappy cap-rock like that. Great climbing, otherwise!

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