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Chimney Rocks

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Central Pinnacle 
Lesser Bluff, The 
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SW Pinnacle 

Chimney Rocks  Rock Climbing 


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Location: 45.72157, -122.19326 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,563
Administrators: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: George Zack on Dec 7, 2013
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Chimney Rock, showing the first pinnacle, and the ...

Weyerhaeuser Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

ADMIN NOTE: Due to Weyerhaeuser closing the access roads to Chimney Rocks, we are working on trying to find/build an alternate access to this fun crag. We've found a way in that would be shorter, and through public land, but a trail will have to be built. If you are interested in helping, please contact Micah Klesick.

Chimney Rocks is a cluster of pinnacles ranging from about 40-220' tall in the high country of the Silver Star Mountain area. They are a rather unique type of geological formation known as a breccia pipe, and are composed predominantly of a silica-cemented rock flour (somewhat physically similar to quartzite).

The climbing up here is characterized by about twenty-something "old-school" (read: sand-bagged) traditional routes from 5.6 - 5.9 on generally clean, solid rock. A good number of these routes are also R-rated for large runouts. There are now a few reasonably protected newer routes as well. See the NW OR Rock book for complete descriptions of the older routes. Summer is the best time to visit, as the area will typically see snow from about November through May or June.

The summit of the Central (highest) Pinnacle can be achieved by routes up nearly every side. Descend via a rappel from a fixed anchor down the East face. There is some uncharted bouldering in the area, plenty of new-route potential, and a fun cave area for a bivy between the two central pinnacles.

Anyone who may place bolts on a new route out here is encouraged to document them for posterity in the newly created "Chimney Rocks Fixed Protecton Log" kept with the summit register of the NW Pinnacle. Please be particularly observant of inhomogeneities and fractures in the rock up here when bolting. Have fun!

Getting There 

As of now, PERMIT is REQUIRED to use these directions: Take good gravel logging roads to the start of a 4x4 trail here: 45.705731° -122.203536°. 1.5 miles of hiking north along this trail will take you to Chimney rocks. Approximately 1.2 miles before the start of the trail at this point in the road: 45.698764° -122.221715°, is a blue gate that may or may not be open. Be warned that active logging in the area may prohibit your entrance. Proceed at your own risk.

Climbing Season

For the Southwest Cascades area.

Weather station 6.2 miles from here

13 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',3],['5.8',4],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Chimney Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Chimney Rocks :
South Chimney   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Central Pinnacle
West Arete   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 170'   Central Pinnacle
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Chimney Rocks

Featured Route For Chimney Rocks
Rock Climbing Photo: West Arete route topo

West Arete 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  Washington : Southwest Cascades : ... : Central Pinnacle
A must-do route for the 5.10 climber at Chimney Rocks. A long, aesthetic, moderate arete with steep cruxes and fantastic exposure.A low crux through the first two bolts continues into 100' of 5.8 climbing up the left side of the arete. Continue up the short, easy section of lower angle broken slab before stepping around to the right side of the arete once vertical again. Enjoy the exposure up the slightly overhung high crux, then finish off the route with 40' of sub-5.8 climbing to the anchor...[more]   Browse More Classics in Washington

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