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Chimney Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
8th and Main T 
Amanecer S 
Ankle's Away T 
Another Roadside Attraction T 
Boardwalk T 
Centerpiece T 
Coherent Excitation T 
Copperhead 5 T 
Crows Nest T 
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat T 
George's Buttress T,TR 
Georges Peach T,S 
Jungle Gym T 
Mistaken Identity T 
New Year's Eve T 
Perfect Peter T 
Ratline S 
Shriveled Penis T 
Single Lens Reflex T 
Standard Route T 
Stonedmasters T 
Stoner's Boner T 
Straight Arrow T 
Stripper T 
Tomorrow is Today S 
Unstrung Harp T 
Venus' Flytrap (Left) T,TR 
Venus' Flytrap (Right) T,TR 
Veranda T 
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 

Chimney Rock Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 32.3682, -110.70455 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,061
Administrators: Greg Opland, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: James DeRoussel on Oct 18, 2002

60° | 38°

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Hut Guide, Chimney Rock, page 2


Chimney Rock is a large, freestanding formation on the west side of the Catalina Highway near mp 11. Proximity to the highway, and a variety of climbing, have made Chimney Rock a popular crag for many years.

The Standard Route (5.7+) is a fun traditional climb that meanders for five short pitches up the broad east face of Chimney Rock. Moderate climbing and comfortable belays make this a great route to learn about multi-pitch climbing.

The southern portion of the east face also hosts a number of harder routes, many of superb quality. On the back (west) side of Chimney Rock are a couple of very hard sport routes. These can be inspected by rapping off the top of Chimney Rock where Standard Route finishes.

Getting There 

Driving up the Catalina Highway, go past Chimney Rock and park in a large pullout on the right just past mp 11. Highway construction has destroyed the old access point, so you have two options.

Direct option: From pullout, walk down-highway about a quarter mile until you are directly below the east face of Chimney Rock. (Be careful walking as there is not much shoulder here).Just below Chimney Rock, there is a break in the cliff where you can fourth-class up about 15 feet to access the rock. This is what remains of the old access. Be careful not to fall into the roadway or kick rocks down onto passing cars.

Safe option: From pullout, walk across the highway to a large culvert. Scramble up slope just right of this culvert to gain the upper ledge. Bushwack south 1/4 mile, paralleling the highway until you reach Chimney Rock.

Climbing Season

For the 2 - Bear Canyon area.

Weather station 3.4 miles from here

31 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Chimney Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Chimney Rock:
George's Buttress   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Standard Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 200'   
Mistaken Identity   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
FIUTT   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     , 2 pitches, 200'   
Stoner's Boner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Centerpiece   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Stripper   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Single Lens Reflex   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Crows Nest   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 220'   
Copperhead 5   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch   
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 7 pitches, 350'   
Jungle Gym   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Straight Arrow   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Shriveled Penis   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 210'   
Amanecer   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Tomorrow is Today   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Chimney Rock

Featured Route For Chimney Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: The wide crack on pitch 3

Crows Nest 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Chimney Rock
This route is located on the far right end of Chimney Rock, just right of the steep, bolted Ratline (5.11). Climb the left leaning, large dihedral for two pitches. Cruxy moves, and great protection, are encountered on both pitches. A two bolt anchor at the top of Ratline marks the top of the first pitch. A savvy leader can easily link the first two pitches. This is desirable as the first belay is hanging while the second belay is one of the best on the mountain (and also bolted). The last ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Arizona

Photos of Chimney Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chimney Rock
Chimney Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Old Summit Hut guide to southern AZ, 1st page of C...
Old Summit Hut guide to southern AZ, 1st page of C...
Rock Climbing Photo: From left to right: George's Buttress, Mistaken Id...
BETA PHOTO: From left to right: George's Buttress, Mistaken Id...
Rock Climbing Photo: Park after the pullout parking sign. I was a fool ...
Park after the pullout parking sign. I was a fool ...
Rock Climbing Photo: 8th and Main...?
8th and Main...?
Rock Climbing Photo: Good man.....
Good man.....
Rock Climbing Photo: Second pitch after the nice OW.
Second pitch after the nice OW.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chimney Rock, March 2003, the day after a rather h...
Chimney Rock, March 2003, the day after a rather h...

Comments on Chimney Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Oct 26, 2008
best single-pitch traditional climbing crag on mt. lemmon.

one negative: be wary of chopped anchors.
Nov 25, 2008
I strongly suggest NOT taking the "safe option" approach. We had a dog with us and decided to approach that way. It was ridiculously unpleasant. My 2 cents, if you can't manage the short scramble, find somewhere else to climb. Great routes though.
By tbrain
Mar 31, 2009
Found baseball cap at the base of the routes on Chimney Rock evening of 30 Mar 09. PM me to collect. Thanks! -Tiffany Brainerd
By Adam Block
From: Tucson, AZ
May 2, 2010
From the picture, it looks like it may be pitch four.
May 2, 2010
Great area on Lemmon for all trad routes and great views like most of Lemmon, however be so kind to watch for loose rock and big blocks for your belayer, and passing traffic on the road below.
By Tim Arnold
Apr 11, 2011
If it helps anyone, the location of Chimney Rock is at this approximate latitude and longitude: 32.36865600 N,110.70476300 W
By Jimbo
Apr 12, 2011
Thanks for posting that. I've been trying to find Chimney Rock for 15 years. Now I finally can.
By enkoopa
Feb 20, 2013
Even with the GPS this was a mess. Finally found the wall but pictures from our book were useless. We climbed some route which took a #4 had a boulder slung as the first mini pitch then went up to a bolted anchor which then continued to some steep sport route. If anyone knows if that is even a route and if so what name is appreciate it.
By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 21, 2013
GregC- you did 8th & Main into Icarus (the 5.11 sport route up the overhanging arete of the pillar).

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