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Chimney Rock - West Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ballet T 
Break Dancing T 
Damper T 
Dirty Dancing T 
Dyno in the Dark T 
Fear of Flying T 
Howard's Horror, Direct T 
Pinched Rib T 
West Face Overhang T 

Chimney Rock - West Face Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Oct 16, 2007


71° | 47°

74° | 49°

76° | 52°

79° | 55°

81° | 56°
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Chimney Rock-climber on "Pinched Rib". P...


The west face of Chimney Rock is the more popular side and gets morning shade and afternoon sun. Ratings range from 5.7 to 5.11b, and there's even an aid climb (A2+) for those into that sort of thing. Recommended routes to do include the circuitous West Face Overhang (5.7), the hand/fist crack of Damper (5.9) and the highly popular dike of Pinched Rib (5.10a).

Safety Warning: The descent route down the "chimney" that splits the formation is filled with huge blocks and debris from a massive rockfall in the summer of 1994 when the route Loose Lips (5.11a) collapsed. While still possible to downclimb the chimney it's best avoid this route to avoid any multi-ton blocks shifting as you weight them.

Getting There 

Approach from points within the Campground or park in the day use parking lot beneath Intersection Rock and walk east to the visible formation.

Climbing Season

Weather station 10.0 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Chimney Rock - West Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Chimney Rock - West Face:
Damper   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Pinched Rib   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Dyno in the Dark   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Chimney Rock - West Face

Featured Route For Chimney Rock - West Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason Partin on the crux of Howard's Horror Direct

Howard's Horror, Direct 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  California : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Chimney Rock - West Face
A fun thin crack/mantle problem. The original 5.7 line started well to the left, and then traversed right to the upper part of the route. The direct start is a better way to do the climb - the protection is very good for the hard moves....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Chimney Rock - West Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Moonrise during the 2012 New Year.
Moonrise during the 2012 New Year.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chimney Rock-West Face. Photo by Blitzo.
Chimney Rock-West Face. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chimney Rock-West Face. Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Chimney Rock-West Face. Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Chimney Rock - West Face Add Comment
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By ryan1024
Dec 31, 2014
This is the face featured in the 1948 (?) Ansel Adams photo "Rocks and Moon".
Rock Climbing Photo: Ansel Adams "Rocks and Moon" (Chimney Ro...
Ansel Adams "Rocks and Moon" (Chimney Rock - west face)

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